Restaurant Guide
Zizzi's Tops
Louise Gerard on a slice of pizza heaven

Zizzi's opened six weeks ago in an area of the Lanes that should probably be renamed the Italian gastronome quarter. I counted at least six other Italian restaurants within 400 yards of each other.  

Which would seem to be a commerical death wish at first glance. Not so. Word is spreading among the Lanes / Browns crowd and the restaurant is picking up business, slowly but surely, through word of mouth.

My companion and I opted to share our starters, and ordered an Insalata estiva (smoked salmon, asparagus, baby spinach and cherry tomatoes in a lime and dill dressing - £4.25) and a round of Tomato and pesto pizza bread. The Insalata was deliciously light, with the lime, dill and salmon flavours perfectly balanced. The pesto pizza bread was enormous but also warm and doughy and crisp in equal measures.

My fellow diner beat me to the Pizza for her main course choice (Del contadino, £6.75), so, I chose a Pasta al Forno dish (Penne della casa £7.20). Marinated chicken, gorgonzola, broccoli, roasted peppers and goats cheese in a cream sauce, and decadently covered in cheese. Delicious.

In the name of a thorough review, we bravely took on the challenge of the dessert menu and opted for a Mela croccante (Italian apple crumble £3.85)) and a Banana Con Cioccolata (caramelised banana, sweet crepes and chocolate sauce £3.95). We were warned each was enough for two, but we couldn't resist trying both - with each cooked fresh in the pizza oven. The crumble was perfectly balanced between sweet and tart, while the topping had a lightly toasted texture with not a hint of stodge. The banana dish was deliciously rich and velvety. We had to consciously stop ourselves from polishing off the lot after such expansive and filling main courses.

Essential Info
Atmosphere: Laidback, stylish in an off-the-shelf kinda way. Would suit ladies that lunch types and young families alike.
Food: This is not predictable Italian fare, with more unusual pasta options than you're usual carbonara fare. Zizzi's USP is their pizza's - mammoth, freshly cooked on wood fired ovens and delicious.
Service: Warm, friendly and helpful.
Drinks: Good selection of Italian wines in all shades at reasonable prices, with a good selection of by the glass options, but only one half-bottle option, one choice of beer.

zizzi's
7/8 Prince Albert Street, Brighton
01273 323273
Open seven days a week

copyright The Insight 2002

 



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