| Restaurant
Guide
Can’t keep
a good cook down
Stefan Chomka enjoys a taste of the simple life at Una’s
Brasserie
They say you can’t
keep a good chef out of the kitchen, and in the case of
Ian, the owner and chef at the newly opened Una’s
Brasserie, never a truer word has been spoken. Having spent
over two decades running a number of large and successful
restaurants in Surrey, just over a year ago Ian threw in
the kitchen towel because of lifestyle pressures. However,
he soon discovered that daytime TV was not for him and that
his chef’s fingers were becoming itchy once more.
So he re-donned his apron and began a new (ad)venture here
in Brighton with his partner Una.
Una’s is an interesting proposition because it is,
first and foremost, what Ian describes as a hobby. That’s
not to say he isn’t taking it seriously – far
from it – but rather it shows the passion behind the
enterprise. While he wants the restaurant to be a success,
Ian is less concerned about it being packed every night
and more with serving good food. As a result he has created
a restaurant that is friendly and welcoming, but also very
good.
Simplicity is the underlying factor that Ian has tried to
create with Una’s. Prices on the menu are set, with
starters at £4.75, mains at £13.50 and desserts
at £3.95, with the odd £2 supplement for dishes
such as scallops. An extensive wine list continues this
approach, with a selection of wines at £12.50, £14.50
and £17.50 – although you can go a lot more
expensive if you wish. “We’ve tried to make
things as simple as possible for people,” says Ian.
The décor also reflects this simplicity. With crisp
white walls and blue seating, the dining room is formal
but not intimidating, softened by 1930s French bistro-esque
art. It is intimate and relaxing.
I started with a vegetarian option, a delicious tartlet
of semi-dried tomatoes, grilled goat’s cheese and
pine nuts on a wonderfully buttery pastry. My partner had
the salad with croutons and pancetta, topped with a poached
egg and drizzled with basil oil, beautifully presented and
equally tasty.
For mains, I had the crisp duck confit with scallion mash
and onion marmalade, which came as a surprisingly large
portion. The duck was meaty and tender and well complemented
by the tart onion marmalade. My partner’s rib eye
steak with sunblushed tomatoes and mushrooms was perfectly
cooked and came with thick home made chips. For vegetarians,
a stuffed flat mushroom with ricotta and spinach with a
spicy tomato sauce is on offer.
Desserts were a powerful chocolate fondant with raspberry
coulis and a delicate glazed lemon tart, again in generous
portions.
And that appears to be the point of Una’s. The food
is great and good value for money, refined yet unpretentious.
As hobbies go, it certainly beats making Airfix models.
Essential info
Atmosphere: Warm and friendly.
Drinks: An excellent and accessible selection
of wines.
Food: Modern European.
Opening hours: Tue-Sat 12-2pm, 6.30pm onwards.
Una’s Brasserie, 33 Western Street,
Brighton. Tel: 01273 776618.
copyright The Insight 2004
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