EATING OUT

It's showtime!
Jerry Lebens camps it up at Venue

What do you do of a Sunday when you're feeling, well, just a little jaded. When the sticky finger of desire doesn't even raise a tickle. You need something new. Something decadent. Something to stretch the edges of your sad old envelope… Yes, darlings, slip on your spangliest frock and your slinkiest slingbacks then step on down to The Venue, and it's showtime, cabaret is back in town!

Yes, this is a restaurant review, but this isn't any old restaurant. The Venue's been given an adaptable, stylish, makeover. Facelift, botox, the works.

Proceedings begin at 4.30pm, so do arrive a tad late to make your entrance (central staircase provided). Drinkies, Kir for me (£2.75) and a glass of dry white wine (£2.50). Nibble your nibbles and study the set menu (£14.50 per person). Starters, Deep fried Camembert with cranberry sauce and a Seafood Salad. Both arrived at the same time as a clean, dryish Chateau Grand Bireau, Entre deux Mers (£12.95). Promising start.

The Roast Lamb with Rosemary and Mushroom Sauce for my friend and Pork Dijonaise for me. Large portions all round, new and roast spuds and al dente veggies. Tasty, fresh and large portions? Yes. Competent and well presented? Yes.
Dessert? Strawberries with Whipped Cream? Profiteroles with Chocolate Sauce? Tiramisu? Can't decide? Another drink? Crisp Bourgogne Aligote (£17.95) Excellent choice. The superb wine list is definitely worth a detour.

The turns arrived (Late? Of course!) Lights! Music! Dave Lynn is a kosher killer queen (diamante with a laser beam). If you have a nervous disposition - then don't look… don't heckle, don't breathe, don't take pictures, don't be straight, even worse, don't be gay, don't head for the powder room, don't hide, don't, whatever you do just don't, it's safer. Not content with an acid tongue? Then sample Dave singing his way through hits from Oliver! and you too can consider yourself one of us. Dave is available to destroy marriages and cause funerals on 01273 390306.

Highly recommended but don't wear the same frock.
Watch out for April 7: Maisy, May 5: Lola Lasagne, Jun 2: Phil Starr, Jul 7: Dave Lynn.

Essential Information
Food: Nicely cooked and well presented, but no veggie option.
Service: Attentive
Atmosphere: Ooh, you could have cut it with a knife.

The Venue
Cafe de Paris, 40 St James's Street
Brighton 01273 603740
Cabaret: once a month, Fridays: Kings Club III 9-1pm, otherwise private hire, more tbc.

copyright New Insight 2002

 



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