| Restaurant
Guide
The Eagle has landed
The Eagle
pub serves award winning food, says Jo Chipchase
British pub food can be variable, ranging from scrappy cuts
of meat drowned in MSG gravy to a rather more enticing experience
that draws upon the highlights of world cuisine. The Eagle
fits into the latter category, with imaginative dishes served
in a convivial environment, and an on-site bakery that provides
fresh bread to accompany your meal.
Last year, The Eagle beat more than 1,000 venues to become
Greene King Food Pub of The Year. According to proprietor,
Dominic McCartan, who also runs the Hop Poles, an emphasis
on fresh ingredients, wholesome cooking, and value for money
helped win the accolade.
During our evening visit, the atmosphere in the bar is laid
back, while the clientele mainly comprises casually dressed
young professionals. The décor is based upon warm
tones and pine fixtures, giving an overall impression of
comfort and airiness. The tables are large enough for us
to relax, and the venue is adorned with night-lights and
fresh flowers. Not forgetting the well-kept tropical fish
tank, shown to us by personable assistant manager, Bez.
According to Bez, people come from all over Brighton to
buy The Eagle’s fresh bread. At least 30 loaves are
made daily by artisan baker, Martin, who starts at the unenviable
hour of 3am. The additive-free bread is baked using centuries-old
techniques and puts spongy supermarket loaves to shame.
Commendably, the menu has something to offer everyone, and
is strong on vegetarian and vegan choices. I start off with
the Cauliflower
Soup (£4.50), which
is light and refreshing with a spicy lift. My companion
chooses the Cauliflower
au Gratin (£5.95),
which is cooked to perfection, while the cheesy, breadcrumb
crust gives it an interesting twist. We sample Martin’s
bread range, of which Dark
Hearth (Guinness) is
our favourite, followed by the fulsome-flavoured Whole
Grain.
Next, we try the Thai
Sweet Chilli Beef (£6.95),
which combines tender meat with light noodles and has a
pleasant kick; and the deliciously delicate Pork
Medallions in Madeira Sauce
(£6.95) – the ideal summer dish. We also enjoy
the traditional Rib
Eye Steak (£6.95),
which melts in the mouth. Our food is accompanied by a subtle
Vina Valoria Rioja
Tinto (£13.95).
To finish off, we order a Summerberry
Cheesecake (£1.75),
which is uplifting and sweet.
Our verdict: a coup for pub cuisine!
Essential info
Drinks:
A good selection of wine. Prices range from £11.00
to £15.95 for a bottle and start at £2.65 for
a 175ml glass.
Food:
Head chef, Shirley McQuillan, has established a hearty menu,
using locally sourced ingredients. The portions are generous
and value for money is unquestionable.
Sounds:
Expect to hear reggae, soul, hip hop, and jazz - not just
“the same old house music”.
Opening hours:
Noon - 9pm Monday to Thursday & Sunday
Noon - 8pm Friday and Saturday
THE EAGLE BAR &
BAKERY
125 Gloucester Road
Brighton
Tel: 01273 607765
copyright The Insight 2004
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