Restaurant Guide
Chillin' out
Abbie Jay gets laid-back at The Sanctuary

SanctuaryThe Sanctuary is one of my favourite haunts. It isn’t just a place to eat, it’s also a great place to relax and chill, and one of the last bastions of the Brighton bohemian, with art, music and the wickedest desserts.

My companion for the evening was the enigmatic Dave. Enigmatic, because it was a mystery to me what he would make of it, not being a particularly arty, bohemian type. Our visit coincided with the opening of a new exhibition of local artists, and music downstairs in the Cella, which we planned to look in on after our meal.

Food is ordered at the counter and served to the table; upstairs for smokers and downstairs for smoke-free. Very civilised. You can order from the day’s set menu or from the selection of fresh salads and quiches on display. The menu is mostly vegetarian with vegan options but usually includes a fish alternative. Homemade soups and patés are a treat and vary from day to day. I chose a refreshing Curried sweet potato and celeriac soup to start (£3.75), whilst Dave’s sophisticated palate was tempted by the Bean and cashew nut paté (£4.75).

Regular Sanctuary-goers will notice recent changes. An expanded kitchen means service is much quicker and a new chef has introduced a menu more influenced by Global cuisine, with leanings toward his own blend of authentic Asian and African dishes. The emphasis is on even more fresh, free range, organic and fairtrade ingredients.

Our choices included Moroccan filo pie or roast tofu and veg salad, but I can never resist prawns so for me it had to be the exotic Sweet Vietnamese King Prawns on lemon couscous, served on bok choy, with fresh mango slices and lime and palm sugar dressing (£8.50). Sanctuary food has never been so sophisticated! It looked and tasted wonderful and went down very well with a lovely crisp vegan Pinot Grigio (£3.00 a glass/ £12.00 a bottle). I could see Dave was impressed as he tucked in to his Burritos (£6.25)! Soft flour tortillas wrapped around a spicy red bean salsa filling, liberally doused in sour cream with chives and served with a crisp green salad.

So on to dessert... I insisted Dave try the Lumpy Bumpy cake, and having offloaded some of the guilt I thoroughly enjoyed a big slice of Passion cake with "just a little cream on top then, thanks."

Another lovely laid-back Sanctuary evening, and they do great breakfasts, lunches and Sunday roasts.

Essential Info
Food: Organic, veggie, fair trade, fair prices and fair dinkum.
Drinks: Small but good selection of wines and beers. Lots of everything else.
Atmosphere: Cool and cultured.
Open 9am – 11pm

The Sanctuary Café
51-55 Brunswick Street East, Hove.
Café: 01273 770002, Cella hire 01273 770006
www.sanctuarycafe.co.uk

copyright The Insight 2004

 



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