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EATING
OUT
Palate
porn
Eve
Vamvas gets aroused at Terre à Terre
 After
first discovering Terre a Terre a few years ago, like most
people I quickly became addicted. But the responsibilities
of restaurant critic require less safe, sometimes jolly
risky, eating gambles and an onerous dining schedule had
kept me from this enduringly popular venue for some time.
I was almost a Terre a Terre virgin again - what to expect?
The
first thing I'd forgotten is how much excitement can be
gleaned from just the menu. It's palate porn, heaving with
obscure but undeniably arousing veloutes, cha chas and splashings.
If detailed ingredient description isn't your thing, don't
be afraid. Just pick something with agreeable principle
content and enjoy. You'll never get a dud.
Shoyu
drenched oven roast mixed pumpkin and sunflower seeds
(£2.40), were delicious and impossibly healthy; onion
potato and thyme flat bread served with kalamata tapinade
and tzatziki was a great nibble. My dining companion
did mention that the tzatziki was garlic light, pulling
the Greek goat herder ancestry card to justify expertise
in this area. There was no dissent over the main meals (all
around £11). Perfectly seared asparagus wrapped
in fresh egg pasta had been liberally doused with a
sundried tomato butter sauce, offset by a bouncy tarragon,
walnut and spinach pesto. The Tiger Brick also boasted
a pesto, here of tiger nut, but was primarily all about
a large, light dough brick, stuffed with sheep's cheese
and preserved lemon. The table fell silent for several minutes,
a rare occurrence.
Replenished
beyond question but unwilling to let it end, we headed for
similarly successful desserts. Coconut macaroons and
mango set custard got a good press, but the rain
vodka cherry cioccolata churros did it for me. It's
testament to Terre a Terre's brilliance that they can conceive
of such a creation, let alone offer it as the vegan option.
The hot sweet doughnut straws were begging to be dipped
in a cup of plentiful, thick bitter chocolate, as were the
vodka soaked cherries. Joy for £5.70.
I'm
utterly hooked again.
Essential
Info
Drinks: Comprehensive selection with good wine list.
We had an immensely quaffable organic white for £14.
Atmosphere: Colourful and fun with good, informal
service that welcomes children, smokers and non and group
bookings for which there's a special, pre bookable menu
in the week. Weekends are manically busy - book in advance
or join the orderly queue that inevitably forms before doors
open for lunch.
Food: Top class, imaginative vegetarian and vegan cuisine
that can delight the most committed of carnivores.
Terre
a Terre
71 East Street
Brighton
Tel: 01273 729051
copyright New Insight 2002
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