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Restaurant
Guide
Snow Restaurant & Cafe Bar
Jerry Lebens visits Snow in Newhaven
 We've
been a long way in the last eighteen months you and I. I
know that in your own way, you've always been there at my
side as I've filled my face. Metaphorically speaking, you've
dusted the crumbs from my lap in Rottingdean and gently
wiped the gravy from my chin in Brighton. Dammit, we've
been to Hove, together. Some of you have even followed my
footsteps. How do I know? Because my phone number once appeared
in The Insight instead of the restaurant's… (didn't
we laugh...).
So trust
me and follow again. Imagine a lovely train journey. Cruising
through the rolling Sussex downs. Over there, the sea twinkles.
Hello sea! And as twilight falls and hunger beckons the
train glides into an unfamiliar station. Yes, it's Newhaven.
Why
is a restaurant as good as Snow in Newhaven? Because Nick
and 'Snowie', the owners, can't stack up as much money as
the cappuccino chains that are busy taking over Brighton
and Hove. Are they good enough to run a restaurant in town?
Yep, Chef, Snowie's, been doing that for the last ten years;
lately at the highly rated Open House on Springfield Road.
Do they regret moving out of town. Nope. They're discovering
that the good people of Newhaven like quality nosh just
as much as us sophisticated Brightonians. That's why we
caught the train. Do keep up.
Starters:
My companion, Ms Pinkerton, ravished the Butterfly Prawns
with Chilli Dip (£4.50). While I sampled the mellow,
Venison and Port Pate (£4.25). Both came with a beautifully
presented salad.
Mains:
Locally caught, Dressed Crab (which came with another enticing
salad, containing lots of fresh asparagus) and Warm Anya
Potatoes (£8.95) The rich combination of cold crab
and warm potatoes making an unusual, but satisfying, winter
dish. While Ms P, having broken the hearts of the prawns,
moved on to the Brie, Broccoli and Red Pepper Pithivier,
surrounded with a Tomato Sauce and Garlic Roasted New Potatoes
(£6.95). An excellent vegetarian pastry and cheese
dish.
Desserts:
Ms P. toyed cruelly with the Messy Chocolate Muffin and
Cream (£3.25) and, on coming up for air, declared
it the best muffin she'd had in ages. I just kept my head
down with the fine Cheese Board, which wasn't on the menu,
but asking never hurts (£5.75).
As for
drinkies during the meal we opted for a light red, Campo
Dorada Rioja (£13.95), followed by coffee's all round
(Espresso or Latte £1.20).
My advice?
If you live in Newhaven, cherish Snow. If you're in Brighton,
catch that train. The food is, if possible, sourced locally,
fresh and well prepared. Snow gives a lot of snootier venues
up the coast a good run for their money.
Essential
Info
Atmosphere: Snow's future depends on maintaining a local
clientele - it's a genuinely low key and friendly place.
Drinks: Short but interesting wine list starts at £8.95
house to Chateauneuf du Pape £21.95 plus bottled beers
etc.
Menu: Different Daytime and Evening Menus, lots of variety
and there's a Vegetarian Chef. The 'Specials' Menu changes
daily. Light snacks to full meals.
Snow Restaurant & Cafe Bar
Bridge Street
Newhaven
01273 516981
copyright The Insight 2002
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