EATING OUT

Fitz 'n' starters

The First Floor Restaurant
by Sarah Hendrickx

I turned up at The First Floor Restaurant on my own, having failed to secure a baby-sitter. I was greeted by Andy the boss, who also owns Fitz's Bar downstairs. Obviously feeling sorry for me, Andy asked if he could join me for dinner and this being his restaurant, how could I refuse?

The First Floor has only been open since the start of August but seems to be doing well for itself already. The walls are yellow and the lighting subdued. It is very pleasant: intimate yet light and airy. Andy has tried to create somewhere that serves the kind of food that he likes to eat. He has collared chef Leighton Jones, formerly of the Atlantic Bar in Covent Garden, and together they have come up with a superb predominantly fish/seafood menu. Everything is made from scratch: bread, paté, desserts, petit fours - everything. I am impressed.

A huge portion of three different home-made breads costs only £1.25, tomato and basil salad is £1.75 and coffee and home-made petit-fours (kumquats and strawberries dipped in chocolate on the day of my visit, but these vary daily) is £1.95. It is nice to feel that you're being looked after. I am very impressed.

Starters and puds come in at under £5, mains around £12. Seriously good value for some very nice cooking using the best locally sourced ingredients. I had Baked Field Mushroom with Chicken and Duck Liver Paté. The boss had Toasted Galia Melon with Apple, Pear and Walnut Confit. Mine was very good, so apparently was his. For my main course I chose Slow Roasted Monkfish wrapped in Pancetta, served with Risotto and Tomato Sauce. The fish was delicious, nicely presented with fresh herbs. Andy had Smoked Haddock Monte Carlo - served with vegetables, poached egg and Hollandaise. It's his favourite. The salmon and steak looked good too as I craned over at other people's food. The speciality of the house is the Seafood Platter for two at £59.95, which is almost brought from the kitchen by fork-lift truck and includes a whole dressed lobster, oysters, mussels, crab claws, langoustines, anchovies, tiger prawns - shall I go on? OK - potatoes, veg. and salad. It sounds stunning,they sold four the first week of opening.

The menu changes fairly regularly and specials are available featuring whatever fish is good that day. There are three vegetarian starters and four main course choices, as well as side order salads and breads. There is also a vegetarian special each day. The current menu offers Wild Mushroom, Spinach and Goats Cheese Parcel and Butternut Squash Risotto. The chef does his best to cater for requests, allergies and preferences.

Following on is an interesting spread of desserts from which, after a conversation about childhood syrup of figs trauma, I exorcised mine with Fig and Honey Marscapone Tart with Amaretto Crème Anglais. Fantastic: it was warm and sweet and just perfect - not too heavy or filling. Andy had Crème Brulée which comes with a shot of peach schnapps to contrast the sweetness of Oyster Bay Sauvingnon Blanc - another one of Andy's favourites - from £8.95 to £24.95, no wine snobbery here.

Madame Sara predicts that this could well be one of those places where getting a table may become pretty tricky once word gets around. Well, you heard it here first. I cannot guarantee that you will have such fine company as moi. Although, I have to say that my evening was spoiled by one small thing. It was a comment made by the boss himself as I politely, yet unconvincingly, refused the petit fours. He said, "Go on. I can tell you're a person who likes chocolate." Okay, that's it - diet starts tomorrow.
P.S. He was right and the petit fours were lovely.

Meal for two: £49.30, plus two bottles of Oyster Bay £17.95

The First Floor Restaurant
New Road
Brighton
01273 682401
Mon-Sat, 5.30pm-12 midnight

Chicken Tonight

Jethro's Chicken Take-away
by Sarah Hendrickx

If I never eat anything other than chicken again, I would be happy. I love the stuff. It is the sole reason for my being an ex-vegetarian. Jethro's chicken is a chicken- lovers dream. For a start it is free-range, which means its bigger, juicier and happier. It is also marinated in one of Jethro's own marinades - there are five to choose from: Thai - coriander, chilli and lemon, to Provence - lemon, rosemary and bay. Your whole leg or breast of chicken is grilled to order right before your very eyes, so allow 15-20 minutes drooling time before you get to eat. You can also get salads, couscous, halloumi and roast potatoes to go with it (vegetarians are catered for).

As a result of our visit to Jethro's, my children and I had the finest picnic in Brighton. Not for us a limp baguette or sun-dried pasty. We had a feast: a Provençal leg, a Cajun breast, chips, garlic mash, mushroom risotto and ratatouille topped off with chocolate mousse and tiramisu. Delicious. At £2.95-£3.45 the chicken sounds expensive but was succulent, big and meaty. In fact, all the portion sizes were generous and we had far more food than we needed for the three of us. The garlic mash was smooth, buttery and very good, the chips were fresh, hot and good with a dusting of sea salt, the risotto was apparently better than the one I make: very mushroomy with cream, wine and fresh rosemary. Again it was a good helping, enough for a lunch on its own. The ratatouille had big chunks of vegetables and a glossy tomato sauce, perfectly fine. We didn't really need the puds, but ate them anyway, both were home-made and de-lish.

As well as the takeaway in Queens Road, you can have your order delivered. Delivery is free if you spend over 15 quid.

On looking at the menu, I felt at first that it was a little expensive, but the food was so good and the portions substantial - it was worth it. The quality of the ingredients and flavourings is certainly superior to most other takeaway establishments. In fact when adding it all up, it didn't come to more than we would usually spend.

Meal for 2-3: £19.50

Jethro's
35 Queens Road
Brighton
01273 325888
11am-2.30pm & 5pm-10.30pm Mon-Sat
12 noon-10pm Sun
Deliveries only available evenings.

Redz Bar

Redz Bar and Brasserie
by Sarah Hendrickx

Redz is brand spanking new and decorated in a smart beige and... red. It was quiet when we visited but it was mid-week - at the weekend it is packed. The highlight of our evening was our waiter, Sebastien, on holiday from theatre school in Paris trying to improve his English before going to study in Hollywood. He misunderstood much of what was said to him, but in the most charming way possible and of course, having a French accent excuses every fault. The service was genuinely faultless and complemented by Sebastien's opinions on the choices that we made from the menu and wine list.

The menu itself is global: we selected Grilled Goats Cheese, Cajun Salmon and Tomato and Roast Pepper Soup between us for starters. The salmon especially was 'succulent with a crust of spices and served with the sweetest roast peppers and a gorgeous dressing'. Everything was presented beautifully and prices here are good for such pretty food.

For our main course, I had Seared Lambs Liver with Bacon and Herb Mash and Caramelised Shallots. The liver was great (I am a convert), the mash a little soft for me. Anthony's Char-Grilled Chicken was lovely, Rod's Japanese Tempura Vegetables were also good and the chips suggested by Sebastien which we didn't really need, were great. Noone was brave enough to try the Sirloin Steak which you fry yourself at your table on a South African Hot Rock. You burn it, you eat it. We had a nice couple of bottles of wine, although the patriotic Sebastien did not approve of the South African Chenin Blanc.

For dessert, having been steered away from the French Crêpes, by guess who, due to their apparent inauthenticity, we were guided towards the Sticky Toffee Pudding which, you may be interested to know, does not exist in France. Sebastien is a convert to Sticky Toffee Pudding and he was right. It was thoroughly delicious, with caramel sauce and a moist drenched sponge. My Tiramisu was also home-made and was very good, but hard to access being served in a deep mug with a large spoon.

Redz is a good family restaurant: plenty of space, friendly staff and well-presented food at a reasonable price.

Meal for 3 including two bottles of wine: £67.50.

Redz Bar and Brasserie
The Old Ship Hotel, Kings Road
Brighton, BN1 1NR. Tel:01273 329001

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