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EATING
OUT
Jerry
Lebens simpers at Saucy
 With
the exception of Bardsley's Fish and Chip Shop, which is
in a different category, Saucy is the best proper restaurant
that I've reviewed for The Insight. Yes I've had some great
meals but Saucy gets the prize. Why? Simple. It's at the
top of the menu - Modern British and International Food
in a smart but informal setting. They then proceed to do
just that, very well indeed. The decor is kinda hacienda
style, but it's cool and I know you'll cope. There are real
linen napkins.
Saucy
has short, grown up descriptions of its dishes. It doesn't
go for the delicately aromatic adjectives harvested lovingly
by poor, but proud and happy marketing consultants…
Aren't you fed up with all that effing "drizzling"
anyway?
"May
we have the Fruity Cotes Du Rhone Villages, Vinsobres
(£18.75 )? Thank you."
Starters:
I had a Tuna and Mussel Risotto with Saffron (listed
as a main course, but obligingly served as a starter: £4.95)
while my faithful Sherpa picked The Pasta Roulade of
Cheese and Leeks with Herb Butter and Tomato Vinaigrette
(£4.25). Both lovely. Mains: Me, Pan Fried Calf's
Liver and Bacon with Dauphinoise Potatoes and a Balsamic
Jus (£9.95). Sherpa, Roast Breast of Duck with
Fondant Potato with Honey and Cumin Jus (£11.50)
Superb.
Large
helpings? No, but with food this well made, who cares? There's
room for pudding. I cracked open a perfect Rhubarb Creme
Brulee (£3.95) and I'd go back for that alone.
Sherpa snarled over a Chocolate Torte with Sweet Tamarrillo
tomato and Chantilly (£4.25) in a way that suggested
that if I wished to sample it then I could buy my own. The
Tamarillo bit was interesting though. It was all so nice
that we shared a tiny glass of Tokay Furmit (£2.75)
to celebrate, and that was nice too.
Saucy
makes it all look very simple. Simple appearances always
mean lots of experience, preparation and hard work. Even
extra drizzling wouldn't have made me any happier.
Essential
info
Atmosphere: Smart but casual, Babies & kids are
welcome.
Veggies: Appropriate dishes all marked with a V sign
on the menu.
Drinks: Excellent Wine List from £10.95 for house
white to £58.95 for the best Champagne
Saucy
8 Church Rd, Hove
BN3 2FL
Reservations & Enquiries 01273 324080
copyright New Insight 2002
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