Restaurant Guide

Hey, watch those knives
Sapporo is Japan at its best, writes Jo Chipchase

Sapporo is a family-run restaurant which takes its name from a Japanese city and opened on Preston Street two and a half years ago. It is the sister establishment to the renowned Chinese restaurant Gars on Prince Albert St. Sapporo succeeds in being more than just an Oriental eatery: it provides an interactive social spectacle, besides serving high quality food.

Managed by the affable Mr Cheung, whose parents come from Hong Kong, Sapporo strikes us a model of Japanese efficiency and hospitality. The diners (a civilised, trendy set) are seated at a traditional communal table, while the chefs occupy the middle space, skilfully preparing the food on two large metal grills. For those who want to dine as an intimate couple or group, smaller tables are available in the adjoining section.

We discovered a comprehensive menu that caters comfortably for most tastes. Sushi, vegetarian dishes, and ‘surf and turf’ (salmon and steak) are all well represented at Sapporo. House specialities are seafood and Teppanyaki dishes, which means ‘cooked on an iron plate grill’. The menu also teaches us some useful Japanese phrases, such as ‘kanpai’, which means ‘cheers’. For the uninitiated, Mr Cheung is on hand to provide friendly guidance.

We started with a Sushi Crabstick, Mackerel, Salmon, and Tuna Platter (£5), which was accompanied by a fine bottle of Sauvignon Blanc Babich from New Zealand (£15.95). We were then served delicious appetizers: skewered and marinated Yakitori Chicken (£4.50); the subtly flavoured Prawns in Breadcrumbs (£5.50), which soak up the various flavours of the dips; and the lightly battered Mixed Vegetable Tempura (£4.80), which practically melted in our mouths.

Two chefs took position at the grills, greeted by flames from the sizzling vegetable oil. They performed juggling tricks with salt and pepper pots, and impressively clashed their knives, while cooking a selection of food, to order, in close proximity to us. We received Finely Sliced Sirloin Steak with Mushrooms (£6) from the appetizer menu and then, from the main menu, Whole Sea Bass (£15.50) and Giant King Prawns with Scottish Fillet Steak (£15.50). The prawns were beautifully butterfly cut and fried, and the steak was wonderfully tender. We also enjoyed a bottle of Saki (£7.95), which has a mild vodka-like taste, but without the harsh after-kick. Delicious!

Our verdict: well worth a visit for the excellent food and the experience.

Essential Info:
Drinks: A well stocked bar serves a range of alcohol. Wine starts at £9.50 bottle / £2.50 glass. A spirit with mixer costs £2.50 and Saki is £7.50.
Food: A comprehensive selection, cooked to perfection, and particularly strong on seafood. The presentation is good and the portions sufficiently generous. Expect to pay £20-£30 per head.
Service: Mr Cheung’s team is helpful and courteous. Watching the chefs prepare the food in front of you is a visual feast.
Surroundings: The restaurant has a buzzy feel and minimalist, clean, design. You couldn’t fault it as a suitable place to dine with friends, hot dates, or business contacts.
Opening hours:
5-11pm Mon to Fri,
11am-11pm Sat,
2pm-10pm Sun

SAPPORO,
38-40 Preston Street
Tel: 01273 777880

copyright The Insight 2004

 



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