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EATING
OUT
Eve
Vamvas gets aroused at Santa Fe
 Seeing
is believing in terms of the transformation of part of the
old cinema building into funky new bar and restaurant. No
sign of fleapit flicks, more like the set for an apperitif
commercial, with appropriate clientele. This was obviously
the place to be seen on Friday night. We plunged through
the heaving bar to the relative calm of the mezzanine dining
area.
And
were relieved to find that this meal was definitely not
going to be the fat enveloped, artery blocking fare commonly
referred to as TexMex. This is a more subtle and inspiring
fusion of Native American, Colonial Spanish and Pioneer
Settler influences. A native of Sante Fe, the chef has liaised
with the internationally renowned School of Cooking there
to mix the traditional and modern. The chipotle shrimp
and corn cakes (£5.95) were a good place to start.
Roasted corn pancakes, topped with plenty of succulent shrimp
and a smoked chile butter were interesting and delicious.
The guacamole was obviously real and tasted so much the
better for it - large pieces of ripe avocado, onion, lime,
pepper and coriander were a million miles away from the
nonsense regularly spooned from a Tupperware tub. As were
the fresh corn chips, baked that day and without so much
as an E number contributing to the crunch.
The
quality of ingredients continued, with the roasted enchilada
(£7.95) boasting vegetables that remained recognisable
and tasty, laden with wholesome spicy beans, red chile sauce
and cheese. Put together and presented well, this was much
more than your average 'veggie option'. The chargrilled
chicken Galisteo (£9.25) was a similarly accomplished
affair, marinated in citrus and chiles, served with spicy
salsa and smoky black beans.
Dessert
was not such a resounding success, principally because one
of the large chocolate brownies was too sticky even for
me. But the accompanying homemade cinnamon ice cream did
much to make amends.
Essential
Info
Food: Carefully compiled menu offers the conservative
palate accessible food with a twist, and the more adventurous
diner plenty to consider too. Virtually all the food is
prepared from fresh ingredients daily, and it shows.
Drinks: Broad range of wines for the average punter,
and a reserve selection for the more sophisticated. Margarita
and tequila heaven for cocktail drinkers.
Atmosphere: A great place for lively lunch and raucous
dinner, particularly in a group. Family friendly and with
disabled facilities.
Service: Our waitress was completely on the ball,
unhesitatingly answering all (awkward) questions and explaining
the tequila options.
Meal for two, with a bottle of wine ran in at a reasonable
£50.
Sante
Fe
75-79 East Street
Tel: 01273 823 231
www.santafe.co.uk
copyright New Insight 2002
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