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Guide
Smart and crisp
Quentin's
Jerry Lebens pampers his tastebuds at Quentin’s
 I’ve
been to Quentin’s before in my capacity as roving
snapper for The Insight. At the time, about a year ago,
the place was very woody – stripped wooden floors,
stripped wooden tables and so forth. Since then it’s
had a complete facelift; carpets, cosy comfy chairs, proper
linen tablecloths and napkins. And extremely nice it is
too.
Once we’d settled in to our places and cracked open
the snazzy red folders containing the menus and winelists,
there wasn’t anything left to do except feel a teeny
bit special and cosseted. On my previous visit, if memory
serves, the menu was classical French, now it’s classy
Pacific Rim.
Prior to the starters, and between courses, we were presented
with a selection of sumptuous little ‘amuse gueule’
treats, the first, a pair of perfectly delicious tiny Duck
Spring Rolls. In fact every morsel that followed was gorgeous
too...
For starters ‘the nearest’ chose the Grilled
Goats Cheese and Braised Peach Tart, Blushed Garlic Tomatoes
and a Liquorice Dressing (£6.50) while I had Steamed
Pigeon Foie Gras, Wild Mushroom Broth, Balsamic Onions and
a Ginger Syrup (£6.95). Every taste complimented the
next.
This was followed by the next ‘taster’, a tiny
bowl of leek soup. Since we’d also chosen equally
exotic main courses it seemed to make good sense to take
the waiter’s advice as to wine. He consulted with
the chef and together they came up with a bottle of Irancy,
a light French red produced in the Chablis region. An excellent
recommendation too (£25).
As for main courses, which were preceeded by a scoop of
unusual but lovely Wholegrain Mustard Ice Cream, we had
already chosen the Chicken Tournedos Stuffed with a Prune
Farce, Sauteed Chicken Livers in a Rich Cherry Sauce and
Fondant Potatoes (£16.95) and Rolled Plaice Fillets
filled with Spinach and Pine Nuts Entrapped with Leek and
a Lobster Potato Cake (£16.50). Wow!
Once we’d regained feeling in our legs, by loosening
the appropriate buttons, desserts comprised Baked Vanilla
Rice Pudding with hot Puffed Pear and Maple Syrup Parfait
(£5.50) and, for me, the British Cheese Selection
with a glass of Port and Savoury Bread (£8.95).
The food at Quentin’s is exquisitely prepared and
cooked, every mouthful a mini roller coaster for the tastebuds.
The service is first rate, attentive without at any point
being intrusive. Eating of this quality doesn’t come
cheap, but this menu would cost an arm and a leg more in
the capital. You wouldn’t bring your Uncle ‘Erbert,
who likes simple nosh and who can’t taste the difference,
but if you like good food done extremely well, Quentin’s
has to rate as one of Brighton’s best.
Essential Info
Atmosphere: Compact quality, managing to be low key and
friendly at the same time.
Special Features: No smoking on the premises, you have to
go outside.
Wine List: Prices from £12.95 (£2.95/glass)
to £86 for the Margeaux. Worth a detour all by itself.
Quentin’s Restaurant
42 Western Road
Hove BN3 1JD
01273 822734
www.quentinsrestaurant.co.uk
copyright The Insight 2004
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