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EATING
OUT
The
51st state
Will
Cottrell flies along to Paris Texas
 Thanks
to the film, the little town of Paris, Texas has become
almost as well known as its counterpart on the Seine. Yet
despite the influence of Hollywood on our culture and the
increasing prevalence of American cuisine on our plates,
Paris Texas the restaurant still manages to retain a bravely
Gallic aura. For a start, it has the feel of a brasserie,
decked out as it is with creaky wooden chairs, polished
floorboards and a breezy ceiling fan. Secondly, the amicable
maitre d‚ really is French, but thirdly, and perhaps
more importantly, it partakes of that great French tradition
- excellent cuisine.
No doubt
Paris Texas aims to serve up the American Bistro atmosphere,
but what you get is a kind of unexpected combination of
both continents: European relaxedness and high cooking standards,
mixed with a willingness to experiment with new and often
fascinating dishes.
And
it is the American influence that provides the inspiration
for the evening's best dish: a concoction named Californian
Cioppino - apparently made by Italian fishermen off the
coast of California - a fishy stew of prawns, mussels, squid
arriving in a white wine, garlic and tomato sauce. Served
with a garnish of thyme and parsley this is a filling and
tangy main course that remains light but without the bulk
of more northerly winter dishes. Absolutely delicious for
£8.95.
On the
opposite side of the table is an equally appetizing-looking
number in the form of a gingered swordfish steak. Marinated
in soy, ginger and coriander, there's a gentle alchemy of
flavour as the juices mix with the char grilled flakes,
producing a delicate yet absolutely delicious mix of American
grill with European ingredients.
Essential
Information
Food
Primarily focused on the Americas but also with a selection
from the Pacific Rim, the menu covers meat, fish, pasta
and salad dishes, plus a range of fajitas. Main course prices
are between £7 and £12, and the set price menus
also offer good value for money. Also open for breakfast,
serving up US favourites, as well as English.
Atmosphere
The staff are discreet and informative, while a giant window
and seats outside give it an on-the-street feel. The floor
plan is split between three levels; downstairs is more open
while the top level has a more intimate feel.
Drinks
A sensible variety of wines plus some unusual chasers: five
types of tequila and four bourbons to add to a selection
of beers. In an American-style joint there also has to be
cocktails: the usual Wallbangers and Sunrises plus a highly
recommended Fire Bomb - Vodka, Tequila, Bourbon and Tabasco.
A glass of house white will set you back £2.75 while
a bottle of Becks comes in at £2.55
Paris
Texas
128 Western Road
Tel: 01273 747111
dine@paristexas.co.uk
Opening hours: Monday 5-10.30pm, Tuesday-Saturday 11am-11pm,
Sunday 11am-10.30pm
copyright New Insight 2002
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