Here to Infinity
Where eating out is child's play by GG Madden
Three toddlers, one hysterical, and
two fraught Mums fell into Infinity Café, supremely relieved to
see the staff barely flinch. Our arrival caused not a small
disturbance, but instead of the bristling 'just shut the kid up'
stance that can be so unwelcoming in these situations, they ran
around for highchairs and gave us tantamount to a police escort to
the food counter. Misery became joy on sight of the instantly
available selection of appetising foods that would bring peace and
contentment to us all.
We decided on the smorgasbord
approach. A mezze plate of falafel, salads, bread, houmous and
olives was the foundation at £5.50, augmented with some of the
more unusual offerings. The falafels were enormous but dry, even
with a generous serving of tahini and houmous, but the salads were
fresh and moist and served with a selection of toasted seeds on
request.
An aduki bean sausage roll was a
big hit, with its firm tomato pastry, as was a crisp tartlet
sporting a sensible feta and pesto topping, which were both priced
at £1.55. The millet slice did nothing for any of us, but
surprisingly was flying out of the place snapped up by a steady
stream of regulars who presumably enjoy virtuous eating more than
I do." More millet!" came the plea from counter to
kitchen and that's a cry not often heard in your average eaterie.
Encouraged by the food as nutrition
bias of the place, I went for a blackcurrant tofu tart and am
delighted to report that despite its healthy primary ingredient,
it still felt pretty sinful. For £2.10, a sticky, nutty oat base
and crust was set off with a creamy, cheesecake like filling and
hearty blackcurrant topping. The date and apricot flapjack was
also wickedly sticky, packed with molasses and chunks of fruit. A
good selection of herbal teas did not tempt us away from a well
deserved caffeine hit, as we all finally sat in quiet satiation.
For approximately 15 seconds.
Essential Information
Atmosphere: More roomy and sedate upstairs for longer sessions,
but a few tables at the end of the food counter are ideal for
kids. The staff couldn't help us enough, bringing endless olives,
plates and straws for our thankless offspring, despite the self
service system. It could be difficult getting through the door
when it's busy. Labelling: this place is for people who really
want to know what they are eating. Completely vegetarian, GMO free
and 95 per cent organic, all the food is made on the premises.
Vegan, wheat free, sugar free, dairy free and nut-free options
abound. All the food can be eaten in or out, with prices varied
accordingly.
Infinity Cafe
50 Gardner Street, Tel: 01273 670743
Open Monday to Saturday, 9 to 5
Tonight at the Ville
Hove cafe goes for later menu by GG Madden
 Fabled for its breakfasts and
doorstep sandwiches, Centre Ville is going a la carte in the
evening. Always hesitant about the myriad of possibilities
awaiting at a 'Bistro', I am relieved to report that the wholesome
approach prevails here. The menu is reminiscent of the lunchtime
fare, with the focus firmly on quantity and value.
Both our starters were good choices
- cracking portions of perfectly deep fried whitebait and a
(slightly alcoholic?) chicken liver pate way exceeded expectations
associated with a three quid price tag. The mains were similarly
plentiful but not such a resounding success, although we did pick
the only two vegetarian choices on the menu.
Courgette and pepper kebabs on rice
and vegetable and noodle stir fry were both passable but not
unlike something that might spring from my wok. Desserts were a
return to form, but there was something of a chasm between the
homemade chocolate fudge cake (moist, black sponge straining under
the weight of a glossy fudge sauce and chocolate flake) and the
less remarkable cheesecakes that had been bought in.
Extending a caff to sophisticated
evening venue is not an easy task, and Centre Ville has kept a
rustic, accessible feel (and deep fat fryer - fantastic chips) to
good effect. A bit more sex appeal, by way of softer lighting and
freshly baked bread might assist the transition, but I can't deny
that we had a really fun night out. The atmosphere was informal,
the service attentive and the live jazz shamelessly populist,
entertaining a good many passer by as well as the diners. On this
evidence, the Bistro should prove to be equally as popular as the
butties.
Essential Information:
Drinks: Wine starting at £8 bottle, £2 a glass; good selection
of bottled beers all at £2.50 and essential spirits.
Food: Most starters under £3; most mains around a fiver and
desserts around £3. Emphasis on meat and fish.
Atmosphere: Unpretentious and unspoilt - proper sized tables and
chairs for settling into. Ideal for groups and those whose
conversation can move beyond ingredient/influence spotting. Live
jazz every Tuesday from 8pm.
Centre Ville
34 Church Road
Hove
Tel: 01273 202 744
www.cafe_centreville.co.uk
Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, 8am to 5 pm and 6pm to 11pm
Sunday 8am to 6pm
copyright New Insight 2001
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