| Restaurant
Guide
Finding its Niche
Niche
Nic Compton dines out at one of Hove’s newest eateries
 "niche
neesh or nich, n a recess in a wall; a situation, place
or condition appropriate for a person or thing; an area
of habitat providing the conditions necessary for an organism
or species to survive…" (Chambers Dictionary)
As definitions go, this one comes quite close to describing
Niche, one of Brighton’s newest restaurants serving
an original variety of ‘British modern’ cuisine.
OK, it’s a bit more than a "recess in a wall",
but its short frontage might fool you into thinking you
were about to dine in someone’s living room. Because
it’s spread over three storeys, there’s a tardis-like
quality to the place. Improbably large numbers of people
stumble in off the street and are magicked away, only to
reappear a couple of hours later looking rounder and rosier
than before.
Kim Morrison and Steve Smith opened Niche six months ago
on the site of a former butcher’s shop. It had already
been converted into a fish restaurant (the former Fruits
de Mer), but retained much of its old workaday character,
including the rough brick walls and stone steps. And a cellar.
Nowadays that cellar is put to good use by Kim and Steve
who have a late licence which allows them to stay open till
2am.
The menu was described to us as "English with a twist",
although "Cosmopolitan with a spin" might be more
apt. As befits the homely atmosphere, there is a set menu
with a choice of starter and main course charged at £16
(Tues to Thurs) and £19 (Fri & Sat). Dessert and
wine are extra.
I kicked off in style with the Port & Red Wine Poached
Pear, with contrasting textures of walnut and Stilton set
against the succulent flavour of saturated pear. Not quite
English but not quite French either. Meanwhile my companion
went Oriental with a Crispy Duck salad with Hoisin dressing
which was light and, yes, crispy but with "quite a
bite to it". I stayed Transmanche for the main course,
with a Goat’s Cheese Filo Tart – hot rings of
cheese set in a bed of caramelised red onion – while
my companion returned closer to home with the Crusted Trout
Fillet, topped with breadcrumbs, sweet pepper and rosemary.
And, it being Shrove Tuesday, for dessert we couldn’t
resist the Pancakes with Apple & Mango (£4), topped
with a calvados and cream. A full-bodied Italian Chianti
(£13) made the ideal liquid accompaniment.
All in all, exactly the culinary conditions "necessary
for an organism or species to survive".
Essential info
Drinks: Cool-kitsch bar with range of spirits and modest
but good wine list.
Food: Expect strong flavours, unusual combination of textures
- but all done with a very light touch.
Atmosphere: "It’s like having dinner at a friend’s
house" – except the bar’s better stocked!
Opening hours:
Tues-Sat 7.30-2.00pm
Sun 12-4pm (roast dinners)
Niche
42 Waterloo Street
Hove BN3 1AY.
Tel: 01273 733733
copyright The Insight 2004
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