| Restaurant
Guide
More wine? More food?
A new eaterie which really does
serve More,
writes Jerry Lebens
I'm glad I'm not the
proprietor of a shiny new restaurant in Brighton. Apart
from the horrendous cost of leasing a square inch around
these parts, there's the problem of coming up with a suitably
interesting name for the place. Something enticing, to draw
the punters and please the crowds. Sadegh al-Hilaly - a
man who has given much pleasure to many Brightonians in
his previous incarnation - as the brains behind the legendary
Pussycat Club - and his partner Jan have come up with More.
I guess if there's anyone who has an inkling of what the
concept of plenty entails, then Sadegh probably has a reasonable
idea.
More is at the Lower end of Trafalgar Street, nestling just
above the Great Eastern. There are tables outside and, for
a big place, the deep red interior has a cosy atmosphere.
On the Sunday afternoon that we dropped in there were three
or four groups sitting around, either eating a meal or having
a leisurely chat over drinks.
We were served by an enthusiastic, and willowy, Aussie waitress
who, clearly intent on revenge for the Rugby World Cup,
proceeded to stuff this flower of English youth senseless,
with enough fodder to vittle a shipload of convicts on a
return trip to Botany Bay .
While we checked the menu we slurped a chilled bottle of
Beck's (£2.70) and a fresh Strawberry Margarita (£4.50),
which was, quite simply, one of the best cocktails I've
ever tasted and worth every penny. The starters arrived
a little later: a shared plate of Veggie Antipasto (£4.95),
marinated roasted artichoke hearts, sun-blushed tomatoes,
feta, brie, mixed marinated kalamata, olives, humus, pitta
and salad.
For mains, I chose Deep Fried Calamari, with a tangy Citrus
Aioli, Frites and salad (£8.95), while my friend opted
for the Thai Green Curry with Tofu and Steamed Basmati Rice
(£7.95). The curry was equal to all but the very best
Thai establishments, and the breaded Calamari had me thinking
wistfully of balmy Mediterranean evenings. Honestly, don't
even think about side orders, you won't need them unless
you have an urgent death wish.
Open all day with a menu that ranges from full English Breakfast
to Chicken Pesto Melt, you'll find something to suit your
palate and your pocket. More might not provide the most
adventurous cuisine in town, but the quality is good and
(did I mention) the portions are vast - a couple could happily
share a starter and main course. The man from the Pussycat
Club definitely made these two punters purr.
Essential Info
Atmosphere: Young, free and easy
Drinks: You name it... Reasonable for a bar, but
a little more expensive than pub prices
Food: An eclectic mixture of tried and tested favourites.
Definitely good value for money
Check out: The free floorshow from the crazy delivery
drivers at the local pizza joint. Admire as they reverse
at speed the wrong way down a one-way street to relieve
the boredom of having to drive around the block. The monkeys!
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 10am-11pm
Sunday 11am-10.30pm
More
98 Trafalgar Street, Brighton BN1 4ER.
Tel: 01273 693377
copyright The Insight 2004
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