| Restaurant
Guide
Finger-lickin' good
You know you're in the UK's Deep South when you go to Momma
Cherri's, writes Simon
Hope
I've always been fascinated
by the culinary melting pot that is the Deep South of America
- just imagine a cuisine that has roots not only in Africa,
Spain, France and England but also native Creole Indian
too. Most importantly, it is the food of people poor in
terms of money but rich in spirit and history. It's not
simply a case of "if it moves, eat it", but more,
"if you've got it, make it finger-lickin', rib stickin',
chitterlin' pickin' good". Cooking to fuel the soul.
And so it was, one wet spring evening, my good friend Jon
Gilham-Hills and I arrived at Momma Cherri's Soul Food Shack.
Tucked away in the furthest possible corner in Little East
Street before it becomes Dr Brighton - Dr John would be
more appropriate! You can't miss it. The outside is like
a cross between a N'awlinz house of ill-repute and a Christmas
tree. When the door opens, the atmosphere leaps out, puts
a hand round your shoulders and leads you firmly into the
maelstrom.
Charita and grandson Tyler welcomed us and showed us to
our table. Goatee Phil, Charita's other half, made us two
teeth-suckin' Margaritas (£4.75) - the best I've had
in a long time. The Margaritas rendered us incapable of
decision-making, so we opted for probably the best meal
deal in Brighton: Soul in a Bowl (£10 per person).
You get a starter of Soup or Nachos, a selection of Soul
Food Tapas and a dessert - and they do a veggie version
too! Hardly surprising Soul in a Bowl is not available on
Saturdays.
I started with something I often crave for: real home-made
chicken soup, the best cure for life's woes (unless you're
a chicken that is!). Jon had the Nachos with a good guacamole,
a genuinely spicy salsa and sour cream. For mains we shared
seven bowls of Dis, Dat and D' Udda - all totally delicious
and centred on a pudding basin of smokey Jambalaya, chockful
of jumbo prawns, tender chicken and smoked sliced andouillette.
Side bowls featured Buffalo Wings, Corn Stix, mouthwatering
Catfish Goujons, Brown Baby Back Ribs, Daphne Barkers Bajan
Jerk Chicken and Cousin Gordon's Sweet Potato Salad. And
that was just Charita's immediate family! Margaritas long
gone, we went easy with large glasses of Gold Coast Colombard
(£4).
As it was included and Charita said we needed feedin' up
(it was dark in there!), I chose a Blueberry Cobbler for
dessert, while Jon opted for the Peachy One - truly Sweet
Surrender! The whole soulful meal came in at £37.50
for two - bargain or what!
Charita, Goatee Jim, Little Tyler and all the extended family
that is Momma Cherri's deserve every success. If you're
'feeling down' and need to feed your soul, reserve a table
now. 'Cos "No Relative Restaurant Critic Simon"
says so!
Atmosphere: So close you could almost wear
it - though some good ol' New Orleans Jazz would have been
appreciated
Food: Wholesome, down-home vittels
Drinks: Goatee Phils' cocktails are the
Baddest!
Momma Cherri's Soul Food Shack
11 Little East Street, Brighton.
Tel: 01273 774545/380846
copyright The Insight 2004
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