May 2001
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jade gourmets
Nigel Berman tucks in to a Chinese feast

We arrived half an hour late for our reservation at the Gourmet Palace, but the staff were fortunately still smiling. First impressions: a warm and comfortable restaurant with a spacious yet intimate feel. Specialising in Cantonese food, the Gourmet Palace is renowned for its fine dining. Meals are unhurried, and the service is excellent, and although only open since December, there are already plans to expand.

We chose from the Set Menu B, which is for a minimum of two people and costs £18 per person. Before 8pm Mon-Thurs, set meals include a free bottle of house wine - which is good value as the wine was rather nice actually. Also as I don't eat pork or seafood, we did change a few of the items, but that was easy enough. Not long after ordering, our waiter brought out the tabletop food heater and a bowl of huge prawn crackers.

For starters we shared Special mixed hors d'oeuvres (satay chicken, toasted prawn with sesame seed, spare ribs and deep fried seaweed). Sarah ate the ribs and the prawn toast, I ate most of the seaweed, the veggie rolls and we shared the satay. The ribs and the satay were especially good.

Second course was Crispy Aromatic Duck with thin flour pancakes. The duck was taken off the bone at the table by the waiter. Sarah gave me a lesson in how to roll the pancakes - spread on hoisin sauce, place duck, cucumber and spring onion - but my attempts were a bit rubbish. Still they tasted lovely, and four pancakes later (to her two) there was none left.

Somehow we managed to make room for the main courses: Beef in black bean sauce, with red and green peppers, (very tender, soft, and delicious), Sweet'n'sour chicken with pineapple, (lovely), Fried mixed vegetables, Roast duck with plum sauce (really delicious and tender), and egg fried rice. The duck was amazing, as was the beef which went very well with the sweet and sour chicken.

To finish we had mints and fortune cookies. Mine said: "prosperity is just around the corner", on the way home I found a fiver! All in all a great night out.

The Gourmet Palace is well known amongst regulars, so it's advisable to book Thursday to Saturday. Last orders are 11.30pm.
Daytime you can eat as much as you like for £6.50, Noon-2.30pm, 7 days a week.
They also do take-away, and a free delivery service on orders over £20.

Gourmet Place
48 St James Street, Brighton
01273 604060


Aah, bistro!
Sarah Hendrickx can't resist eating too much in Nia Café

Not long open in the food belt that is North Laine, is Nia. I have to start by saying that this one is good, very good.

Jago and I massively over-ordered in there one sunny afternoon. The menu is varied with drinks, cakes, light meals, main meals and breakfasts (like Oak Smoked Kippers with Rye Bread and Lemon at £4.95). They also do sarnies - baguette, bagel, ciabatta or pannini - with a variety of fillings including salami, smoked salmon and feta (although not necessarily in the same sandwich). There are also a range of daily specials and soup served with doorsteps of bread.

I chose the Pan-fried Cod with Citrus Butter served with Rosemary and Parmesan Chips and Mangetout (£6.50). This was a good choice. Two fillets of fish arrived, perfectly cooked and doused in a lemony, buttery sauce. Chips were nice and the mangetout were crisp. Jago had a Tuna, Red Onion and Lemon Mayo Bagel (£3.25) which was warm, crispy and stuffed to the brim with tuna. The red onion was part caramelised and sweet, the salad garnish was huge with a cranberry dressing and there were also crisps on the side. Plenty for anyone… except us. Not realising that portions were so generous, we also ordered Garlic and Herb Ciabatta (£2) and Potato Wedges with Mustard Mayo dip (£2.75). Wedges were great fat things and garlic bread was very garlicky and dripping with oil - in a nice way.

Needless to say, we couldn't manage it all but strangely had enough room to share a Hot Chocolate Brownie with Chocolate Sauce and cream (£2.35). Deliciously dark, rich and warm. Next time I shall try Red Orange ice cream, which sounds very interesting.

The décor is minimalist - bare floors and walls with a mismatched selection of furniture. The huge windows make it very light and it was constantly busy while we were there. Music is 60s and the atmosphere is kind of nice. Ian and Sally are in charge and trying to create something a little bit different.

Colouring books are provided for kids, there is plenty for vegetarians, food is fantastic value and no fault can be found. Be warned though that one meal is enough for anybody.

Huge lunch for two including soft drinks: £19.25

Nia Cafe
87-88 Trafalgar Street
01273 671371
Open: Mon to Fri
9am-7pm, Sun 9-6pm.


Worth forking out for
La Petite Fourchette may be new, but it's a little gem

Following on the heels of La Fourchette - featured in the Good Food Guide and considered by many to be the best restaurant in Brighton - is La Petite Fourchette, a new café bistro in East Street.

This place is a little gem. Intimate and warm, it is bright and modern, with exposed brickwork walls, and marble table tops. At the last minute, my friend Yolanda decided she could get back from London in time, so we went together. It was a Friday night, and the place was almost full, with a nice ambience, and pleasant chatter in the background.

The menu at La Petite Fourchette is fairly comprehensive covering fish, seafood and meat as well as vegetarian dishes and pasta, plus daily specials, all freshly cooked by French chef Frederic.

I started healthily with Salad Nicoise with fresh tuna and anchovies (£4.20). It came with the usual mix of crisp green beans, greek olives and egg. Yolanda had Sauté King Prawns with leek, garlic and parsley (£4.50), which was five huge, fresh prawns beautifully presented, her eyes twinkled as she greedily tucked in.

For main course I chose Roast chicken with herbs, wild mushrooms, parsley and olive oil mash (£7.50). The chicken was tender, perfectly cooked and very tasty. The griddled courgettes, and shitake and cep mushrooms adding extra flavours. Yolanda chose Grilled smoked haddock with dauphinois potatoes and spinach (£7.00). Decorated with a big shell and one large prawn. The fish was "very fresh, with a lovely strong flavour," it came with six different types of vegetables, including garlic spinach. Both of our dishes were nice sized portions, and extremely good.

Then came the desserts. At £2.50 each these are a steal. I had Mousse Cassis - blackcurrant and chantilly with fresh raspberries, whilst Yolanda had Tortellette aux Poivres baked in light almond cream with vanilla ice cream. Both looked stunning, and tasted amazing. With coffee to finish, we were both well fed and watered.

La Petite Fourchette has only been open 7 weeks, and is currently a BYO - we brought our own white wine. The Mediterranean style menu is very affordable. A meal for two, including starter, main course and dessert, costs about £20 to £30. The food here is really good, and exceptional value. Recommended.

La Petite Fourchette
8 East Street, Brighton
01273 711001
Open: Tues to Sat 10.30-3pm,
6-10.30pm, Sun 10-5pm

 



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