March 2001
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's surreal treat

Sarah Hendrickx samples The Fringe Bar where there's never a bad menu day

It's a small world. I only moved to Brighton 18 months ago. Since I've been here I've met someone who I last saw living in Cornwall, a bloke that I spent the night with 15 years ago and only this week I saw my best friend from Infant School in Sainsbury's yes, Amanda, it was me. Even Norman Cook hails from our shared home-town of Reigate. Perhaps it's not a small world, only a very desirable city.

This brings me to my latest jaunt into culinary Brighton with a visit to a very desirable bar/restaurant perfect for this very desirable city. The Fringe is downstairs from the Bamboo Bar, North Laine, but there the similarities end. The Fringe is a mad Dali-meets-Gaudi affair full of mosaics, leopard prints and curly, metal light fittings, very busy on the eye, but it works.

We stopped by on a Sunday afternoon. There were a few people in: some eating, some quaffing a cocktail, some lounging in the separate comfy seating area just sipping coffee and perusing the magazines. A little tip: don't read Bizarre in close proximity to your lunch. The décor gives you plenty to look at and the sounds are very hip and easy on the ear: bit of jazz, St Germain and 60s funk.

The menu is fairly short and sweet with a selection of light bites and bigger dishes with about four vegetarian options. Ant had Thai Green Chicken Curry on a bed of Jasmine Scented Rice. I went for The Fringe Sausages on a bed of Roast Parsnip and Scallion Champ surrounded by a Red Onion Jus, and Jago who's four chose The Fringe Pizza with Chunky Fries and bread. We shared a bottle of Chenin Blanc and an orange juice for Jago. The food took some time to arrive due to its fresh preparation but was all delicious. The sausages were plump and peppery, the chicken curry mild and korma-ish and the chips very nice. Needless to say, everything disappeared; Jago ate his biggest meal for a month. All of the desserts are also made on the premises, you certainly can appreciate the difference. We shared Tiramisu, Banoffie Pie and Lime and Vanilla Crème Brulée. The Banoffie Pie was superbly sweet with a berry couli and nearly equalled by the others.

No one will rush you at The Fringe. You can pop in for coffee, have a bite to eat or linger over a cocktail. Why not do all three and stay for the day? I, for one, will certainly be back - mine's an Acapulco Zombie, if you're buying.

Meal for three including drinks: £43.45

The Fringe Bar
10 Kensington Gardens
North Laine, Brighton BN1 4AL
01273 623683
Disabled access and toilet facilities.


Best possible taste

Sarah Hendrickx checks out a new organic cafe

It's half term, the sun is out and North Laine is swarming. Jago and I are seated in Kai watching the world and their kids bustling by. Kai has been open for a month or
two in Gardner Street and, judging by the constant stream of punters, is not doing too badly.

Everything that you quaff or scoff in Kai is organic. That is absolutely everything: bread, cakes, lemonade, wine, soup and coffee. The café is bright and light and has seating downstairs and up, but a lot of their business appears to be take-away. Sandwiches, salads and cakes are pre-packed so you can pick 'em up, pay and walk away without having to wait. We chose not to do that and plonked ourselves down at a table.

Jago had a Mature Cheese, Tomato and Fresh Basil Sandwich (£2.95 eat-in, £2.50 take-away) and I had Carrot and Coriander Soup with Herb Bread (£2.80). The sandwich was lovely and fresh with delicious bread and good, strong cheese; they are all made each day on the premises. My soup was piping hot and tasty. We shared a can of organic lemonade and a slice of Organic Chocolate and Orange Cake, which was moist and deeply chocolatey.

Kai have a licence to sell alcohol with food and offer a selection of organic beers. You are welcome to take these away for consumption on the nearest park bench, if you wish. The menu is mostly vegetarian but they do have organic bacon and ham from time to time. They also serve hot spicy bean pasties and have a range of superb looking cakes at around £2.20 a slice including Carrot Cake and Lemon and Almond Cake.

Fresh, tasty food that is also good for you

including a selection of tasty pasties - you can't do better than that.

Kai Organic Café
52 Gardner Street
North Laine, Brighton
01273 684921
Open: Mon-Wed 8.45am-5.30pm, Thur-Fri 8.45am-7pm, Sat 9.30am-5.30pm, Sun 12 noon-4.30pm.

 



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