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Eating
Out
Seafood,
eat it!
Eve Streeter scoops a meal at Loch Fyne
 Even
from the outside, you know that Loch Fyne is going to feel
like a decadent treat. Once inside, you won't be disappointed.
Upstairs in the restaurant on the second floor, the gastronomic
delight that lies ahead is already palpable in the warm,
airy atmosphere scented with the light smell of cooked fish.
If you like good food, you'll love this touch of understated
culinary luxury at affordable prices.
For
lovers of seafood, it's a guilty pleasure enjoyed in public.
Every dish is cooked to perfection, served promptly by informed
and friendly staff and enjoyed in an atmosphere that is
conducive to the art of eating well. And you don't have
to be a connoisseur of all things marine to get the most
from the menu, as the staff are happy to take you through
the merits of the dishes on offer.
The
menu is based on serving 'the freshest natural seafood in
a simple manner'. We opted for the light delight of oysters
served on ice (£5.95 for six) and smoked salmon (£5.95)
to start. For the main course, we had roasted seabream with
whisky and horseradish sauce (£10.95) and pan-fried
salmon with red onion marmalade (£8.15) from the specials
board. The servings were generous and the sauces rich and
intense without smothering the delicate flavour of the melt-in-the-mouth
fish. Both were dishes you just didn't want to end and the
experience was flawless and borderline sensual. By the time
we'd finished our raspberry cheesecake and lemon tart desserts,
Loch Fyne had won itself two new devoted customers who very
nearly had to be prised from their table when it was time
to leave.
Eating
here at any time is an occasion and a celebration in itself.
Book early at weekends to avoid disappointment.
Essential
Information
Drinks: Excellent selection of quality white wines and a
few carefully chosen red wines and spirits. Prices start
from about £10 a bottle for the house wine.
Food: Heaven for lovers of seafood, with an elegant menu
of British fish, shellfish, mussels and renowned oysters.
Glen Fyne beef and a vegetarian option are also available.
Atmosphere: Refined, laid back and elegantly spacious.
Loch
Fyne
95-99 Western Road
Brighton
Tel: 01273 716160
Opening hours: 10am to 10.30pm daily.
Seeking
refuge
Jerry Lebens gets warmed up at the Sanctuary
Christmas
eve at lunchtime in Churchill Square. It was hell with fairy
lights. We battered our way down Western Road at 1pm as
the shopping frenzy reached its climax. The bars and cafes
were bursting; the chances of finding somewhere relaxing
to eat or to have a quick coffee were pretty remote. Then
we spotted it, The Sanctuary, in Brunswick Street East,
it was busy but not full. Downstairs is non-smokers. We
trooped upstairs which turned out to be a spacious and light
Victorian workroom with bright winter sun streaming in through
the high windows.
Since
it's open from 9am through to 11pm The Sanctuary menu has
to cover a lot of ground. The emphasis is on healthy veggie
with vegan, fish and 'I'll go on a diet in the New Year'
options. Breakfast choices include a frugal fruit salad
with yogurt and honey (£2.75) or the tempting scrambled
eggs on toast with smoked salmon (£4.50). As the day
proceeds you can choose between toasted bagels (£2.25-£3.50)
or fresh baked baguettes (£2.45-£4.25). Then
there are the jacket potatoes with salad (£2.95- £4.95),
salads from the bar (£4.25-£5.50) or main meals
such as soup & bread (£3.50) or meze - olives
feta, humous salad & pitta, (£5.25).
Besides
food there's an extensive range of reasonably priced drinks,
interesting teas and coffees to the fore, as well as juices,
smoothies and cans for the kiddies.
We planned
a light meal around the specials on the blackboard. I had
the salmon fillet with a lemon grass, chilli and dill sauce
sauce (£6.75 including rice and salad) and my oppo
went for the tagliatelle with porcini, aubergine, roasted
courgette and tomato sauce (£5.25). The fish was cooked
perfectly and balanced well with a zesty sauce. Likewise
the pasta, with it's own bowl of shaved parmesan, on a cold
day it was a real treat. Our portions were more than ample
and Sharon, the owner who happened to serve us, is proud
that doggy bags and boxes are an everyday neccesity. There
isn't a wine list but there's always a stock of straightforward
Aussie or NZ wines at about £11.00 a bottle. With
some last minute shopping to do we decided that couple of
bottles of Czech Budvar would do.
Then
we blew it. My partner had spied a very gooey dime bar cake
(£2.50) and I fancied that innocent little raspberry
millefeuille (£2.50). We were beaten and had to admit
defeat. The doggy bags had to be called in to give extra
support while we made a hasty retreat.
The
Sanctuary deserves it's faithful clientele - simple, well
prepared, food in a relaxed and unpretentious atmosphere
at reasonable prices. Definitely worth a detour.
Essential
Information
Drinks: Short alcohol list but excellent quality with special
organic wines and beers.
Service: Efficient and friendly.
Atmosphere: Very relaxed (One guy snored on a sofa throughout)
and child friendly.
Extras: Poetry and music in the Basement, grab a flyer.
The Sanctuary Cafe & Music Bar
51/55 Brunswick Street East
Hove
Tel: 01273 770002
Open 9am-11pm Every day of the week
copyright New Insight 2001
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