EATING OUT

The love of china
GG also visits an extended Gourmet Palace

What was up until recently a small and unremarkable looking Chinese now has an overwhelming presence in Kemptown. Extending into a spacious former interiors shop definitely gets it significantly closer to palatial, with huge windows showcasing a light, modern feel. Leather loungers accommodate pre-dinner and casual drinkers, with an extensive range of coffees and good views across the restaurant, down the New Steine and out to sea. Sufficiently cordial to complement the hand painted, paddling cranes mural, and the waterfall - both unusual features of the décor.

The menu promises a 'harmony of renowned eye catching presentation, with the sweet aroma of the cuisine and the majestic taste of the orient' and is incredibly comprehensive. Rather than spend ages examining it, we plumped for an Emperor's Special Mixed Hot Hors D'oeuvres to share for £13. Crispy would be the most relevant adjective here - seaweed, spring roll, prawn toast, wanton, all cooked to perfection. With capitol spare ribs and chicken providing carnivorous relief it would be fair to say that the platter was a looker. With this very fortifying opener it was fortunate that we'd planned to keep the next round light. The sweet and sour king prawns (£6.50) were fat and plentiful, lightly battered and dripping with a bright and zesty sauce. The chicken chow mein (£4.50) was succulent and smoky and what looked like a moderate dish of egg fried rice (£3) turned out to be more than enough as we loaded our plates for the final time.

With food and service like this coming in at less than £50 for the two of us, it's not hard to see why Gourmet Palace could give some more established competition cause for concern.

Essential Information:
Drinks: House wine £2.50 a glass, £9 a bottle; limited but sensible wine list; bottled beers £2.80 and spirits.
Food: Good quality Chinese food including all the tried and tested faves. Lunch time specials, 12 - 2.30pm - two courses: soup followed by main, at £5.99 per person, or any starter, main course and glass of wine, at £6.99 per person. Early evening specials - £9.99 per person (minimum two persons) 5.30-7.30pm crispy aromatic duck or mixed hors d'ouevres, choice of two mains, with rice or noodles.
Atmosphere:
Modern but warm eating area that can generate some noise on a packed Saturday night. Great aquarium in the dividing wall, which must have taken some engineering talent to pull off.

Gourmet Palace
48 St James Street
Kemptown
Brighton
Tel: 01273 604 060

Opening hours: Open for Lunch from 12-2.30pm, and for dinner and take away from 5.30 to 11.30 pm, seven days a week.

copyright New Insight 2001

 



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