The Dorset

Six Hendrickx's piled into The Dorset on a very soggy Sunday to sample the fare. First impressions were, well, impressive as we were welcomed and shown to our table by the friendly staff. We scanned the extensive and varied menu and took bloody ages to decide which is a genetic Hendrickx trait amid much discussion and debate. Jago, four, was the exception and knew immediately that sausage, chips and garlic bread were for him from the kids' menu brought with fab colouring pictures including a five-legged ladybird and crayons. Finally, we settled on Roast Pork for Grandma, Steak and French Fries for Grandpa, Crepe Malcolm pancake filled with garlic, mushrooms, spring onions and Stilton for Anthony. I had a Triple Granary Club Sandwich smoked turkey, bacon, lettuce, tomato and mayo with fries and Jess chose Dorset Fish Pie calamari, prawns, haddock, mussels with a cheesy mash crust. We had a couple of portions of garlic bread to munch while we waited and a bottle of house white. Our food arrived and filled the table with a feast of colours and aromas. It all looked crisp, fresh and appetising. Without exception, it was well cooked and very tasty. The steak was 'excellent', Crepe Malcolm, gorgeously rich, and the Dorset Pie was perfect, rainy day, comfort food. Jago scoffed all of his sausage and chips and the ice lolly that followed, a Bug Pop for the lolly connoisseur.

The dessert menu was universally lauded for the desirability of every item. Between us we had both specials and all but two on the menu: Dorset Pastry croissant filled with chocolate chips, caramel and banana, Tart Tatin, Chocolate Cheesecake, Fruit and Brandy Viennoise and Passionfruit Bavarois. Not a fault can be found.
Sunday lunchtime was pretty busy with hangover wearers, pape -reading coffee drinkers and lucky, childless people having breakfast after a lie in natch. The décor is French Provincial and the menu, which features lots of fish and Gallic dishes, reflects this. Apparently, Friday is the day to go, as this is when all the fresh fish comes in. The atmosphere is lively and the feeling is good. The evening menu features some of the same and some seriously interesting combinations: Grilled Salmon with Salami and Camembert with a Tomato and Basil Sauce. Wow! SH

The Dorset
28 North Road, Brighton BN1 1YR.
Tel: 01273 605423
10am-11pm 7 days.

The Regency

If it's fish you want, this is the plaice: Sorry. The Regency seems to crop up in every visiting and resident celebs list of favourite restaurants. When I become one, I will add it to mine too.

It's a funny sort of place without fuss, pretension or even matching cutlery. The diners are a real mixture of visitors and locals, dressed ups and casuals. The lights are bright, the tables are crammed in and the music is random. Plastic tablecloths and paper napkins adorn the tables, but no one cares: the place is packed night after night. Nothing seems to matter except the fish.
The menu is comprehensive, mainly based around fish and seafood but also featuring pasta, steaks, roasts and salads - a few bits for vegetarians - but you'd be mad not to try the fish. Prices are incredibly reasonable at £4.40 for the basic fish and chips up to £17.95 for Lobster Thermidor. The staff are Italian, very funny and stunningly efficient. You are not going to spend a leisurely evening eating here - the food arrives very quickly and there are more hungry punters waiting to get their bums on your seat. We did three courses and a bottle of wine in one hour and twenty minutes. I had Moules Mariniere to start and Anthony had Fresh Marinated Anchovies. Both were bargain: cheap and really tasty. I had the Grilled Fish Medley, fillets of salmon, halibut, swordfish, sardines and king prawn with new potatoes for my main course simply cooked to preserve the flavour of the fish. It was lovely. Anthony had Grilled Rainbow Trout and chips, which was equally delicious. We shared a nice bottle of Chilean Chardonnay and I scoffed a Treacle Pudding and ice cream, which was pretty good in its syrupiness. I could have chosen Fruit Sherry Trifle, a rare sight on a menu these days, or Rhubarb Crumble all for £2.50 - fantastic!

For all-round value, atmosphere and service, The Regency is a good bet for decent fish and chips right on the seafront whether it's lobster or lemon sole that tickles your taste buds. Three-course meal for two including drinks: £35.60. SH

The Regency
131 Kings Road, Brighton. Tel: 01273 325014
Mon-Sat 11am-10pm

Circa

I didn't realise that the population of Lewes was so attractive! Perhaps it is just this particular new eaterie, Circa, which brought them all out into the open. They were certainly in the right place, as Circa is an extremely stylish establishment, beautifully designed by one of the owners, Ann and managed by her husband, Ashley. These two are veterans of the London restaurant scene and as such have brought a slice of the city to affluent Lewes and it seems to be going down a treat. The clientele was thirty plus and extremely well groomed and stylish. Black is definitely the new black.

The décor is bronze and cream with lots of curves, a slightly 70s fee, good lighting and very comfy chairs. Jazz massages your ears and an enticing menu invites your eyes. I got the driving short straw so had a couple of glasses of orange and cranberry juice, which was a lovely colour and very refreshing. Ant had a couple of Stellas and a glass or two of Chardonnay. The staff looked lovely in their black shirts and bronze ties. The atmosphere was relaxed and the bathroom fantastic. I want a sink like that! You'll have to go and have a look for yourselves.

The highlight of my meal had to be my starter: Roast Pumpkin and Thyme Frittatta with a Red Pepper Jelly. It was sublime and insisted on being eaten in complete silence in order to absorb its deliciousness. Anthony had Crispy Crab Cakes with a Caper and Lemon Dressing with the biggest capers I have ever seen. For our main courses, I chose Chargrilled Rump of Lamb with Wood-roasted Minted Aubergine and Ant selected Thai-Style Sea Bass with Pak Choi and Shitake Mushrooms. The bass is steamed inside a banana leaf and it came with side dishes of french fries and roasted carrots and parsnips. Both were cooked in the wood burning oven under the watchful eye of Head Chef, Julian and Senior Sous Chef, Mark, formerly of Glyndebourne and Havana, respectively. Both meals came quickly, were fresh and hot and swiftly polished off, although Anthony found his veg a little salty. The menu will change according to the season, and will feature a couple of vegetarian options. I managed to cram in an Apricot Crumble and Home made Ice Cream which was good but over-indulgent on my part. We had two coffees to finish and two very large bellies to take away.

Circa is also open for lunch where the menu offers hot sandwiches, such as Sauté Mushrooms with Tarragon Crème Fraîche on Onion Foccacia with French Fries, as well as salads and selections from the dinner menu. You are welcome to pop in for just a coffee or a beer as they have a bar licence. This is surely the place to see and be seen in Lewes in 2001.

Circa
145 High Street, Lewes BN7 1XT
(Opposite 15th Century Bookshop)
Tel: 01273 471777
Mon-Sat 11am-11pm

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