|
Restaurant
Guide
The Epicurean
Gourmet Gala
Eve Vamvas heads down to The Epicurean for some bon
posh nosh
 The
Epicurean is the brand new restaurant that’s opened
in what used to be Whytes off Western Road. Despite Whytes’s
reputation I was not even aware it had closed six months
ago, unlike Whytes devotees, who say they’ve been subsisting
on baked beans since its closure, and who’ve been pouring
through the door of The Epicurean in such numbers that it
had a full house on its third night of opening!
Not easily impressed myself, the refit is a great start.
Modern but warm and comfortable, the place has been given
a classy feel without pretension. And the tables were a
visual feast before anything even digestible arrived –
weighty, architectural cutlery and china designed to provide
a suitable backdrop to the food. The wine list can only
be described as extensive – we headed for a bottle
of Chardonnay de l’Ardeche (£14.90); light, true
and highly quaffable throughout the meal (an ideal choice
for lunchtime drinking too) but could have explored the
output of every region of France, worked our way across
Europe, New World and even visited the Lebanon.
On to the food – starters were sumptuous. The Fresh
Asparagus and Wild Mushrooms (£6.40) were beautifully
fresh, full of colour and texture and dressed with a subtle
sauce. This was a great dish and yet was still overshadowed
by the Home Cured and Smoked Seafood (£7.90). Smoked
on the premises by the owners, a feast of prawns, scallops
and salmon sat geometrically atop a ring of cous cous with
a lime dressing. This smoked salmon is so good it will ruin
your relationship with the commercially available variety
for evermore.
Although it would have been difficult to top the opening
to the meal, the mains were certainly in the competition.
A Fried Aubergine and Tomato Cherry Timbale (£9.90)
was solid but the Fillet of Scottish Salmon (£12.90)
proved the more interesting choice. Large and well grilled,
it was stuffed with a leek puree with a naturally creamy
texture and taste. I was initially hesitant about the port
and blackberry sauce, (laden though it was with fresh raspberries)
but soon found a real liking for it, particularly as accompaniment
to the vegetables.
Up until now the meal was rich without being heavy; we were
feeling well fed but pleasingly virtuous and let that guide
us in our choice of desserts. And boy did these kill that
feeling. The Caramelised Pineapple in a rum mousse filled
brandy snap cone was very large and loaded with a delicious
pistachio coulis (£5.90) and the Warm Chocolate Tartlet
(£6.90) was almost too much of a good thing, being
a dense sponge in thick pastry, with homemade white chocolate
ice cream assisting in its entire consumption.
72 hours after opening, I’d say the new owners have
a success on their hands already.
Essential Info
Food: Top quality, French-based cuisine with a twist. The
home smoked seafood is worth a visit in itself although
a penchant for duck, pork, lamb, beef or rabbit is catered
for, as are vegetarians. It’s not the cheapest restaurant
in Brighton, but is still good value. Two course lunch at
£8.50 and three course lunch at £12.50 are bound
to be an absolute winner.
Drinks: Large wine list providing for the ignorant and cognescenti
alike, from £10.50 to £150 a bottle and good
‘by the glass’ selection. Unlikely to become a
beer joint.
Atmosphere: Smart but informal – not an easy combination
– people of all ages dressed up for an evening of fine
food, wine and fun.
Service: Professional, knowledgeable and enthusiastic about
your dining experience.
Open Tuesday to Saturday inclusive, for lunch and dinner
– you will need to book.
The Epicurean
33 Western Street
Brighton
Tel: 776618
http://www.epicurean-brighton.com
copyright The Insight
2002
|
