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Restaurant
Guide
Coriander
Abbie Jay heads east to an African organic
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menu, equally disparate, is based on an eclectic blend
of herbs, spices and fresh ingredients drawn from worldwide
cuisine. |
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It
can change on a whim, inspired by each new source of delicacy
and includes such unlikely elements as crocodile, when available,
ostrich fillet (only from species in plentiful supply),
Japanese snow-dried tofu or light, fluffy masa spoonbread,
as well as a few more familiar ingredients.
Restaurant
owner David is passionate about food and extremely (excuse
the pun!) pro-active in searching out the best, the rare,
the most flavoursome. Surprisingly most of the produce,
even the unusual chilly rellenos and tomatillos, is locally
grown and despite the sense of fun and adventure the ethos
of good healthy nutrition remains paramount.
I started
with buffalo mozarella (£4.50) This was light and
refreshing, without a hint of rubberiness, and contrasted
beautifully with the sharpness of red onion, cornichons,
capers and a crisp rocket and vine cherry tomato salad in
an aged balsamic dressing. My partner chose bread with dips
and dukkah (£5.00); the warm homemade bread in its
little clay pot was perfect for dunking in oil and a spicy
seed and nut combination, with several dips, including humus
and a delicious jalepeno mixture.
There
were some very interesting veggie options, but although
normally vegetarian, neither of us could resist the fish.
He chose a fresh char-grilled kingfish steak (£13.00)
marinated in aciote and pink grapefruit, served with anatto
pea rice, mango-coconut-lemon myrtle sauce and quandon-golden
kiwi-habanero salsa, and raved about the delicacy of the
fish in its subtle aboriginal flavourings. I tried the ancho-chipotle
king prawns (£13.00) Smoky-flavoured melt-in-the-mouth
heaven on a sugarcane skewer served with Mexican rice, oaxacan
black beans and an air-cured tuna and blackened baby squid
salsa. The Madagascar prawns came from ocean to table in
less than 48 hours; the flavour and texture were exquisite.
It wasn't a matter of 'could we manage a dessert?' rather
a case of how-could-we-not, and what finished us off was
a rich dark chocolate sponge, topped with grated white chocolate
and shredded mint leaves served with balsamic strawberry
ice cream and fresh raspberries.
Essential
Information
Drinks: A fine international selection of wines,
ciders and beers. (Including hemp and Russian rye beers)
Excellent house wines at £10.50 a bottle.
Food: Beautifully presented, healthy, fresh and very
original. An artistes palette of flavours and textures mixed
and matched in a kind of culinary abstract expressionism.
Includes great vegetarian options and allergies can be catered
for.
Atmosphere: Relaxed, airy, offbeat with mellow jazz
and trance. not for the conventional; a great place to chill.
Coriander
5 Hove Manor
Hove Street, Hove
01273 730850
Open Tuesday - Saturday 7-11pm
copyright The Insight 2002
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