| Restaurant
Guide
A contemporary classic
The Circa Brasserie
at Pelham House in Lewes is the epitome of understated class,
says Simon Hope
When Kate and I took
our daughter Mollie to Circa Brasserie at the Pelham House
Hotel in Lewes, we were, as usual, the first to arrive.
Pelham House just oozes history, and its catering facilities
are now run by Circa, whose hub is Ashley Renton. Ashley,
like Circa, is totally understated. Their power comes in
confident and assured delivery. Even the absence of condiments
was great: it proved the kitchen had confidence!
We ordered a bottle of Chablis premier cru Montmains £23.75
– everything you could want in a Chablis from a crispness
point of view but lacking a little butteriness. Still very
slurpable though. Head chef Simon Raynors’ menu is
beautifully balanced (if slightly mispelt) and, even though
the three of us comprised a carnivore, a vegetarian (bordering
on vegan) and a pescatorian, we all had more than enough
choice. There are seven starters and seven mains, and for
me that says this menu is fresh – and it was.
Some focaccia and balsamic vinegar then appeared –
I thought microwaved, but Mollie and Kate thought I was
talking rubbish as usual. I had Chickpea and Feta Fritters
with Vodka Cucumber and Tsatziki (£4.95). The fritters
were perfect, light, crisp and moreish. The vodka cucumber
was a simple garnish of vodka – marinated cucumber
cut like taglione. I’d have preferred more of a counterpoint
relish than the tsatziki. Kate chose Deep-Fried Saffron
Bocconcini Risotto with Garlic-Buttered Spinach and Chianti
Bolla Sauce (£5.95). The risotto balls oozed mozzarella,
and Kate was so happy she was already looking forward to
dessert! Mollie’s Tiger Prawn and Pumpkin Tortellinis,
Vegetable Spaghetti and Peanut Beurre Noisette looked fantastic,
but I didn’t get a chance to taste it because Miss
Contemporary ate so fast!
Mains were equally stunning. My Charred Rib Eye (£16.95)
was served on a truly unctuous goosefat rösti topped
with mushy peas and accompanied by meaux mustard ream. Mollie’s
Steamed Sea Bass (£15.45) was devoured with sesame
noodles and a tamari broth, which she claimed ‘lacked
punch’ (where does she get it from?). Kate consumed
every morsel of her Lemon Cous Cous Haloumi Brik with Zoalouk
and Orange Chutney (£7.95) with relish.
The girls plumped for Cafétiere Coffee with Handmade
Chocolates (£2.50), while I demolished a plate of
British Cheeses (£6.00) with probably the best dessert
wine in the world, Hungarian Tokaj, at £5.95 a glass.
The chocolates were rich but perfectly formed, my cheese
crumbled as British cheese should. There was plenty of coffee.
What more could you want? At £99.40 for the three
of us, an absolute snip. We’ll certainly be back!
Atmosphere: Corporate rather than cosy.
Food: I never paid a chef to spell –
Simon Raynor is up there with the best!
Drink: A fab wine list, keynote cocktails.
Opening Hours: Lunch 12-2.30pm, Mon-Sun;
Dinner Mon-Sat, 6-9.30pm.
Circa Brasserie at Pelham House Hotel,
St Andrews Lane, Lewes. Tel: 01273 471333.
copyright The Insight 2004
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