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EATING
OUT
Hove
heaven
GG Madden makes a return visit to Centreville
 Back
in September, I reviewed this celebrated caff as it began
to stretch itself into bistro territory. Although we had
a good night out, the quality of food and service was let
down by a lack of frills that left the transition not entirely
successful. These minor criticisms included lighting like
a dental surgery and unexciting bread - petty but relevant.
I was invited back for a second hit.
Suspense
wasn't heightened by a feeling that I knew exactly how the
evening would run - fun but functional and with few surprises.
In fact, the first big surprise was before we stepped through
the door. The whole place has been given a complete ambience
update, with clever use of mirrors, candles and soft, cascading
fairy lights that literally wooed us through the door. Bathed
in this forgiving light, diners and restaurant looked considerably
more sexy and the prognosis looked good. We started with
camembert, the crispy coating encasing an increasingly
liquid centre and chargrilled vegetables in a light lemon
dressing, garnished with feta and mozzarella. Good scores
on presentation, taste and portions for both. They were
also accompanied with lightly toasted French bread morsels
and butter flowers - another distinct improvement.
The
grilled plaice, loaded with a dense cream and mustard
seed sauce, relaxed over a large serving of garlic mash
and fantastically nutty baked parsnips. My companion had
the largest pork chop I have ever seen, with Centreville's
renowned chips. The menu is now more comprehensive and includes
duck and every other kind of protein in at least two different
guises as well as good vegetarian options. There literally
is something for everyone here. As for pudding, I was sceptical
that anything priced at £2.50 could be worth the calorific
intake but was impressively corrected. A home-made mandarin
and kiwi cheesecake was dense, tart with a perfectly constructed
base - we liked it.
Accompanied
with plenty of Chilean Merlot (£10 a bottle)
and Rachel Struthers, a familiar face and voice on the live
circuit, it was a Saturday night well spent. All frills
present and correct - Centreville is now a fully fledged
evening venue.
Essential
Information:
Drinks: Wine starting at £8 bottle, £2
a glass; good selection of bottled beers all at £2.50
and essential spirits.
Food: A broad menu that would accommodate the most
diverse group of diners, without straining the wallet. Most
starters £3; mains start at around a fiver, and desserts
around £3.
Atmosphere: Still unpretentious; cosy but roomy,
ideal for groups and parties. Live jazz Tuesday to Saturday
evenings; live mellow set from 3 pm on Sundays.
Centre
Ville
34 Church Road
Hove
Tel: 01273 202 744
www.cafe_centreville.co.uk
Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, 8 am to 5 pm and 6 pm
to 11 pm
Sunday 8 am to 11 pm.
copyright New Insight 2001
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