| Restaurant
Guide
Vive le bon nosh!
Le Bordeaux offers
formal and brasserie-style meals with an accent Français.
Santé! says Simon Hope
A couple of weeks ago
I was sitting outside le Comptoir des Sports in Sainte Foy
la Grande in the Dordogne. In front of me was a plate of
rare, roast Limousin beef and a glass of St Emilion Grand
Cru 2001. As temperatures climbed steadily into the 70s,
a warm breeze feathered my skin and I thought, “things
don’t get much better than this!” Every single
customer in le Comptoir ate the same dish and, with cheese
or dessert, it cost just 8 Euros (£5.00). French obstinacy
has allowed them to maintain the most important facets of
life: family and food.
When I got back, I couldn’t wait to try Le Bordeaux,
as owner and head chef Dimitri was born a mere 20km from
le Comptoir. Formerly the Ship Hotel, the venue has been
transformed into a classic french formal dining room with
brasserie style food in the bar. The dining room is so French
you feel you’ve somehow been teleported across the
channel. There’s a red/white theme, folded napkins,
loads of glasses and crockery that owes more to Picasso
than Conran.
There are £36, £26 and £20 menus plus
the carte. My former business partner Jez and I chose the
£26 menu – simply because we wanted to eat it
all! I selected King Scallop Ravioli, Jez plumped for Veal
Sweetbreads and Salsify Pastilla, Carrot Puree and Veal
Jus. But first a treat of Spicy Marinated Sardines on toast
while Bob, the wine waiter, brought the gutsy Domaine de
la Grave, Rosé (£14).
The starters revealed Dimitri as a chef working at the peak
of his powers. Scallops in fresh pasta with a baby turnip,
brocciflower and lemongrass brochette, roast cherry vine
tomatoes and fish-stock reduction flecked with perfect brunoise.
Jez’s Pastilla (Moroccan filled filo-type pastry)
was stuffed with sweetbreads that melted in the mouth. Even
the tinned salsify tasted great!
Polishing off the rosé with gusto, we moved on to
a soft plummy Château Amphoux, Langue d’Oc du
Sud red (£20.50) and our mains. I chose one of the
few fish dishes that go well with red wine: Roast Bacon
wrapped Monkfish. It was a delicious dissembled fish pie
with boiled small, not new, potatoes, steamed tiny whole
fennel and blanquette sauce. Jez’s ‘duckling
breasts’ had unusually large, vital statistics –
I’d call them Magrets! Still, absolutely delicious:
pink with crispy fat skin and poached red wine pears.
Le Bordeaux has probably the best cheese board in Brighton.
Jez decimated it, while I chose a crisp Tarte aux Pommes.
A sweet glass of red Pineau des Charentes at £3.60
rounded the meal off perfectly. This was a real bargain
at £99.50 considering the quality of the food and
the quantity of the wine! Go to Le Bordeaux now while you
still can. It’s going to get very booked up, and it’s
a lot cheaper than going to France.
Atmosphere: Entente Cordiale!
Drink: Bêret Good!
Food: Mange-tout, mange-tout!
Opening Hours: Restaurant Mon-Sun 12-1.30pm
& 7-9.30pm; Brasserie Mon-Sat12-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm,
Sun 12-9.30pm
Le Bordeaux
3 Hove Street, Hove. Tel.01273 734936.
copyright The Insight 2004
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