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Restaurant
Guide
White Stuff
Abbie Jay gets flirty at Blanch
House
 ‘Blanch
House… the hippest wateringhole outside London’,
declared the Evening Standard, but hey, we Brightonians
aren’t impressed so easily, and just to make it interesting,
my date was an unsuspecting Londoner... We relaxed in the
cocktail bar; cosy atmosphere, huge range of cocktails,
and the rest, including juices (he was driving), and were
shown the menu for the evening. It included vegetarian and
fish choices and was priced at £27.50 for two courses
or £35 for three.
The dining room is lovely, intimate and elegant in sumptuously
understated white leather and chrome (blanch, of course).
Comfortable and unpretentious. So far, so good...
I ordered the vegetarian options, my date, the fish and
chicken, so we chose a light, lemony Soave from the wine
menu. (Extensive wine list starting at around £13
a bottle.) A little asparagus soup whetted our appetites
as we waited for our starters to arrive.
The portions are delicate works of art, almost too good
to eat. My starter, an interesting little tartlet of Goats
cheese and spiced tomato compote with rocket and sorrel
vinaigrette dressing, his, Wild seabass on a bed of soba
noodles and shredded radish salad with blood orange glaze.
"This is wonderful," he murmured, eyebrows raised.
"Mmmmm," I agreed, nonchalantly.
The main course was equally impressive. Mine was a Masala
encrusted aubergine stack layered with riata and roast chilli
potatoes with drizzles of red pepper and green curry sauces.
This was spicy and tender but I would have liked another
veg or two to give it more colour and variety of flavour.
He chose Slow braised chicken, stuffed with a nutty textured
mixture of chicken, carrots, peppers, onion and garlic,
served with creamy white polenta and lemon thyme jus. "This
is so good," he said, savouring each mouthful, "that
I don’t want to finish it!"
We lingered over dessert. By now I was glowing slightly
from the spices, wine and compliments so decided to play
it cool with a refreshing Crème fraiche ice topped
with strawberry, candied fennel and orange salad and vanilla
tuile. Delicious. He chose Orange and almond torte with
tangy rhubarb compote and yoghurt cream.
The food defies description, visually and flavourwise –
you just had to be there. Exquisitely presented little taste-bombs
followed one another to the table. The portions not large
but satisfying. It all made for a very enjoyable evening
and in a perfect setting for a romantic dinner, special
occasion or if you just feel like spoiling yourself. It’s
not cheap, but very reasonable for a restaurant of this
class.
"You must let me treat you in return." He enthused,
"there’s a little place I know up in Town…"
"Mmmm," I murmured contentedly. (But you’ve
a hard act to follow mate!)
Essential info
Atmosphere: Classy and laid back.
Drinks: Everything you could want and a great choice of
cocktails in the bar.
Food: Exquisite
BLANCH HOUSE
Restaurant Cocktail Bar Hotel
17 Atlingworth Street, Brighton
01273 603504
www.blanchhouse.co.uk
copyright The Insight 2003
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