EATING OUT

Mary-Louise Harding gambols to the Casino

The Rendezvous Casino at Brighton Marina is a bit of a pilot project for the parent company. Just a few months old, the company has designed the Casino with a more discerning, upmarket and more gender-balanced clientele in mind. The Bay Restaurant - which offers a varied and interesting modern European style a la carte menu as well as a choice of chargrilled, Chinese and Indian selections and a set-price, more informal bar menu - is central to its aims of debunking popular preconceptions of the British casino as a smoky, seedy retreat for wide-boy East End gangster types.

Located in Brighton Marina, the Casino gives a crisp, pleasant, and professional impression from the moment you enter. Any daunting ideas of being inside a den of iniquity are largely dispelled by the slick, modern feel of the female-staffed reception hall.

The restaurant is situated on a raised mezzanine alongside the huge gaming floor, next to windows overlooking the mouth of the Marina, giving diners a chance to stay focused on the gaming action, or to gaze out at the harbour lights. My companion and I were struck by the impeccable attentiveness of the waiting staff - the likes of which you would normally only expect in a top London restaurant or hotel!

The current menu is a new selection - I plumped for a light starter of Asparagus soup with garlic and red pepper croutons (£3.00) from the European Cuisine menu, artistically presented, and refreshingly delicious with the seasoning complimenting the unique taste of asparagus rather than drowning it. My companion chose a Club menu starter of Crab and Avocado Tian with Lemon and Dill Crème Fraiche which she was immensely impressed by, describing the dish as light with clean, fresh avocado and a distinct lack of lazy mayonnaise making it a superb dish.

I followed my soup with Roasted Monkfish wrapped in Prosciutto with Herb Risotto and a Tomato Oregano sauce (£12.50) which was dense, rich and good, while my fellow diner opted for the Bay Restaurant Seafood Platter that, complete with sole, seabass, prawns, scallop and salmon in chive infused olive oil, was a portion strictly for large appetites! All was washed down with a delicious bone dry, oak-less Chablis J Moreau et Fils, Chablis, France (£17.50), expertly recommended by our waiter from the impressive wine list that offers the complete range for all tastes and pockets, from an Australian Riesling at £11.00 to a 1997 Mersauilt white burgundy at £57.00 for white wine and a similar scale for reds.

Of course we sampled the desserts (!), but were too well fed to appreciate them fully - the menu caters for all palates with everything from a refreshing sorbet medley with fresh fruit, to an extremely rich Truffled Belgian Chocolate Bavois, and of course the essential cheese board.

Essential Info
Food: accomplished, pleasant and wide choice of classic 'European' dishes, catering for vegetarian demands as well as the confirmed carnivore.
Service: Impeccably professional, politely friendly and attentive.
Atmosphere: A relaxed respite for compulsive gamblers and sideline diners alike.

Bay Restaurant
Rendezvous Casino
Brighton Marina
Tel: 01273 605602

copyright The Insight 2002

 



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