| Restaurant
Guide
Old favourite reborn
Serious diners rub shoulders with all-day breakfasters and
pre-clubbers at Barney’s,
says Melinda Saunders
YOU CAN’T fail
to miss Barney’s. The expansive American-style bar/restaurant
occupies a fair chunk of the Hove end of Western Road and
was revamped and rejuvenated by owner Lisa Turner three
months ago from its previous incarnation as Richard’s.
It’s now a much happier and relaxed place, with all
its machinations well-oiled and running smoothly.
Barney’s is something of a chameleon. Split into two
levels – dining and bar area – there’s
a plethora of nooks and crannies to get dining and drinking
in. By day, nip in for breakfast, brunch, lunch, afternoon
tea and pastries, speciality coffees and breads or prepare
yourself for the magnanimous portions of a three-course
meal. At dusk, it transforms into a laid-back but bustling
restaurant.
When we visited early Saturday evening the dining clientele
included couples, a hen party and families, plus sofas filled
with pre-clubbers ordering cocktails and tipples, enjoying
the Ibiza-style DJ vibes from the bar. There really is enough
room for everyone here!
The décor is half 1950s American, half chunky Swedish
furniture, with cappuccino walls and brown hues throughout.
Table settings are minimal, but the food was simply delicious.
For starters I plumped for a finely tuned assembly of Baby
Thai Fish Cakes with Mixed Leaves and Spicy Tomato (£5.95).
Nice and light, the flavours were a pleasing balance of
intense and subtle. My companion opted for the Home-made
Oriental Prawn, Mango and Chilli Spring-rolls served with
a Soy, Ginger and Honey Dipping Sauce (£5.45). Tasty
but filling for a starter was the verdict.
Nice to see old classics updated, so for mains I chose the
Rack of Lamb served on Bubble and Squeak with a Redcurrant
and Rosemary Jus and Buttered French Beans (£13.95).
The lamb was perfectly pink and the gravy divine. “Wow,
this tomato sauce is great,” said my companion who
had ordered Pan-fried Cod wrapped in Parma Ham, served on
a Colcannon Mash with a Roast Tomato Compote (£9.45).
The cod was succulent, the onion string atop superfluous,
but essentially a filling and delicious meal. The reasonable
house wine (Shiraz) complemented the meals perfectly at
£11.45.
Defeated by the enormity of her two courses, my companion
opted for a Mocha (£1.85) for dessert but aided me
in demolishing the delicate Cherry Frangi – glazed
cherries on a bakewell base served with custard (£3.75).
There are plenty of Ben and Jerry’s ice-cream concoctions
to choose from for the sweet-toothed. Barney’s will
satisfy the hungriest of palettes, but it’s also perfect
for a coffee with friends, lighter bites, breakfasts, celebrations,
a relaxing dining experience – or just to sit by the
window and watch Hove Actually! go by.
Essential Info
Atmosphere: Happening, fun, funky and relaxed
within a classier, laid-back atmosphere.
Drinks: Classic cocktails £4.95.
Champagne £34.95 bottle /£6.75 glass.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 10am-11pm,
Sun 10-10.30pm.
Worth remembering: Breakfasts served until
6pm.
BARNEY’S BAR AND CANTEEN
102-106 Western Road, Hove
Tel: 01273 720058.
Also: 46-56 Portland Road, Worthing
Tel: 01903 527075.
copyright The Insight 2004
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