EATING OUT

Top fish 'n' chips
Jerry Lebens takes a portion at Bardsleys

We all know that there are chippies and there are chippies. Anyone who's spent any time in Brighton has probably heard of Bardsley's and it's terrific reputation as one of the finest fish and chip restaurants in the country.

Why don't you go there more often? You want reasons? I'll give you reasons. Go to Bardsley's you're walking into a thick, buttery slice of Brighton history. Muriel and Roy are the third generation of a frying dynasty - son Neil makes it four. It's a real chip shop too, spotless white tiles, no candelabra.

We were pathetically late (Last orders at 8.00pm) but the welcome couldn't have been better. I'd have told me to bugger off - there and then. Still, we were in and we were hungry. Drink? You mean tea? Oh no, they could nip to the pub for us, or we could entertain a bottle from the Co-op down the road. No corkage. We said "two pints of Kronenburg, please," and a marvellous girl nipped to the pub for our bevvies. For five pounds. Heaven.

Cod and Chips (£5.50). Utterly Gorgeous. Grilled Sea Bass and Chips (£7.95). Sex with Fins (And I could have had it poached or fried). Is there a secret? No, they use the same oil and stuff as all the other shops. It's the quality of the fish. They do use a thin batter mix so, although the fillets may look small on the plate, they're crisp and light, not fat and greasy. All the cod is line caught in highly regulated Norwegian waters and frozen rapidly at sea. Other species are provided by a small number of trusted suppliers who know not to call if the quality isn't up to scratch.

The menu is as you would expect plus a few exotic specials (see the board). There's a nod towards the veggies - I quite like the sound of Pea Fritters and Bubble Cake which, Roy says, is a bubble without the squeak…

Bardsley's is special, and Roy and Muriel make sure that every customer feels special too. They clearly adore what they do, and are tickled pink over their glowing reputation. For a tiny price get down to Baker Street and enjoy some of the best fish you've ever tasted. At the same time you'll be putting something back into the real Brighton.

Essential Info
Opening Hours: 10.30-2.30/4.00-8.00 Closed Sun/Mon
Atmosphere: Give us a snog.


Bardsley's Fish & Chip Shop
23 Baker Street
Brighton
01273 681256

copyright New Insight 2002

 



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