| Restaurant
Guide
Table for two?
Jerry Lebens samples the fare at Tables
88
The original Tables 88 was a disused, Far Eastern jailhouse
that had been converted to a restaurant, where each table
had its own private nook off the main corridor, each one
an old jail cell. Nice... Our Tables 88, just off the Esplanade
and adjacent to the West Pier, is probably a little cosier,
but, with its three salons all connected by a narrow corridor,
it bears a certain resemblance and hence the name.
And I heartily recommend it. Why? Do you remember ‘drizzling’?
There was a time when you couldn’t get cup of whelks
that hadn’t been ‘drizzled’ on. But drizzling’s
been replaced, and in some venues by plain overkill. Too
many ingredients: for every sweet thing a sour counterpoint,
each colour its complement and for every crunchy bit a dribbly
nemesis. Personally, for a memorable meal I want to recall
flavours. Not to be overwhelmed by palate fatigue.
And this is why I recommend Tables 88. Fresh food, prepared
simply by excellent cooks. What else do you need? Owner
Thomas explains, “We’ve just introduced our
new menu, which is short because everything is fresh –
if one of the morning’s deliveries isn’t up
to scratch, we’ll strike it from the menu that night,
rather than serve it.”
To test his claim, I ordered a starter of Pan
Fried Asparagus Spears served with a Hollandaise Sauce on
English Cured Ham (£4.50).
Thomas kindly suggested that I tasted another starter (just
in case) so, to be polite, I tried the Involtini
di Melanzane; which comprised
Bresaola and Rocket rolled in a lightly fried slice of Aubergine
and finished with coarsely grated Parmesan Cheese (£4.95).
For main course I opted for the Pan
Fried Fillet of Sea Bass
served on a bed of New Potatoes Artichokes and Cherry tomatoes
(£9.25). Drinks – I had a glass or two of the
House White; Chardonnay
Ackerman, Vin de pays du Jardin de la France
(£4.00 per 250ml glass) which was straightforward
and pleasant.
The food? Like I said. Fresh, well-cooked with each discrete
ingredient counting to the whole impression. So I topped
it off with a Creme
Caramel (£3.50).
As is right for a spring menu, it was light. Despite having
crammed in an extra course, as well as a dessert, I wasn’t
stuffed.
Essential Info
Atmosphere:
Casual yet stylish.
Food:
Well prepared, easy on the flash quotient.
Service:
Attentive and friendly.
Drinks:
Extensive choice from £11.00 for house Red or White
to serious wallet damage.
Value: Quality
nosh, at a reasonable price.
TABLES 88
124 Kings Road
Brighton
Tel: 01273 722525
copyright The Insight 2004
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