EATING OUT

Go sole mio

Donatello
Sarah Hendrickx flexes her gourmet mussels and enjoys the fruits of dining alone at friendly Donatello

I didn't feel like making conversation, so I went to Donatello's on my own. Never assume that lone diners are sad weirdos with no friends. They may, like myself, have endured twelve years of family mealtimes and find eating alone is pure indulgence.

It was a Thursday night, I thought it would be quiet, but I couldn't have been more wrong. Around 350 people trailed through the doors of Donatello's that evening. I don't know where they put them all but they all went somewhere. As a solo scoffer, there was plenty to look at: the hordes of people coming and going, the complete calm efficiency of the staff, the convivial atmosphere and pleasant, spotless surroundings. The chairs are comfortable too.

My food arrived quickly despite the full house, served by staff who were as cool as a cucumber, courteous and swift in their service. I had Cozze Marinara to start. Shell-on mussels aren't the most inconspicuous thing to eat whilst sitting on my own. How do the Italians eat mussels, I wonder? Like the French: scooping sauce and mussels up with half of the shell? I hope so. They were delicious and tasted of the sea, with the white wine and fresh parsley sauce mopped up with crusty bread.
I also had Tortelloni Gratinati spinach and ricotta-stuffed pasta with a cream, sage, cheese and ham topping, grilled, which also came very quickly and very hot. The menu is staple Italian fare with plenty of pizzas, pastas, meat and fish dishes. It all looked very nice on its way from the kitchen. An average pizza or pasta meal will set you back around £6 and there is a salad bar from which to help yourself.

As always, I can cram down a pud. Today, I had a Coppa Donatello: fresh fruit salad, ice cream and cream. There was more cream than fruit but what there was was good: fresh strawberries, apples and grapes.

Donatello is an ideal pre-theatre venue as it is centrally located and open all day and evening. It's the kind of place to take your parents: clean, brilliant service and nothing too scary on the menu. As for eating out on your own, give it a try. You might like it.

DONATELLO
3 Brighton Place
The Lanes Brighton
775477, 11.30 - 11 7 days a week.

Quiet on the Front

Western Front
by Sarah Hendrickx

I don't know why but I like it in here. It's all just quite sexy in an odd sort of way. It's kind of sparse inside with a tatty Mediterranean feel, a mixed bag of daytime punters, rusty tables and laid-back jazz. The staff, the food and the building itself seem relaxed and cool without really trying. It would be nice to hide out in here all afternoon and never quite get around to going back to work.

Western Front is right on Churchill Square, in the centre of town, but once inside you can hear nothing of the consumerist chaos outside. It is an oasis of calm amidst the shopping fervour outside. A slower pace of life. Well, at lunchtime anyway; at night it gets heaving. There's no food after 8pm, only alcohol, including the seriously pokey Absinthe. Alas, another day, even I can't cope with that at two in the afternoon.

The menu is simple but interesting. From a dish of Marinated Olives (£1.15) or Aioli and Chips to Chicken, Sweet Potato, Coconut and Coriander Curry (£6.25) and Caesar Salad (£4.95). There are Light Bites and Main Meals with a few vegetarian choices. I had a Hot Chicken Fillet, Raclette Cheese and Red Onion Baguette (£4.25), which was tender hot meat and melting cheese in crusty French bread. It came with a decent salad garnish, dressing and pumpkin seeds. There are just two desserts on offer: Coffee and Vanilla Ice Cream and Bread and Butter Pudding, but that's for another time.

Turn up on May 12 and 13, claim your pew and watch the spectacle that is The Streets of Brighton with its international street theatre performers. I'd watch that Absinthe though, or you may just find yourself joining them.

WESTERN FRONT
11 Cranbourne Street, Brighton
Tel: 725656
Food served: Mon-Sat 12-8 , Sun 12-6

Capers
by Sarah Hendrickx

It's on days like this that I know exactly why I live in Brighton. It's Saturday, the sun is shining and I am sitting outside Capers in the heart of North Laine with a plateful of sausage and mash in front of me. What better life than this?

This is a superb spot for watching the world pass by, coverting those bangers. And not just any old bangers, mind. These are locally made Pork and Sage, smothered with thick onion gravy with a small atoll of mash on the side. Jolly tasty they are too.

My assistant today is my daughter, Jess, who has inherited the Hendrickx gene of hollow leggedness and can demolish a baguette or two (hot marinaded chicken, sweetcorn and mayo today) without stopping for breath.

This explains how we also managed a huge wedge of Banofee Pie, home-made by Nicky , which was truly the finest I have tasted: a buttery biscuit base with a thick caramel layer, spread with fresh, sliced banana, topped with squirty cream and grated chocolate. It was fabulous.

Capers does a range of breakfasts, sarnies, jackets and specials with nothing costing more than a fiver. The food is good, nicely served and plentiful, but their true edge is the service. Jackie, one of the owners, in particular, is a natural with the customers.

Her genuine enthusiasm for her job and for Brighton is infectious and you really do feel welcome here. Nothing is too much trouble for the staff, which explains why so many people become regulars. Capers will be showing an exhibition of photographs: Ray of Colours, throughout May, as part of the Brighton Festival.

Capers
27 Gardner St, Brighton BN1 1UP
Tel: 675550
Mon-Fri 9-6, Sat 9-5, Sun 10-3

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